tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-46988217004746699072024-03-27T16:54:42.503-07:00Accessible Origami for the Blind and Visually ImpairedThis blog is the home of the Accessible Origami Project. Started in 2009, it aims to make origami accessible to blind and visually impaired people through text-only instructions. Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.comBlogger156125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-23326576758226778352024-03-10T22:05:00.000-07:002024-03-10T22:05:09.457-07:00MBMG5 - DIAMOND CUBE DESIGNED BY MADHURA GUPTA (FROM 6 SQUARES) <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKerZbMHlhRJQzYC8lpqSTk9DbEHbUxUXjNIaEEkhyLoxVNPucXMKh3y0CVptzww7sSHjeU2K-kj9dG45qghrYJIIk27Ob3qG_ShNX2pInIps9xMgE-EnOn4Ad9JUALYP2iSqNcxyxjqAxp9tXP5nAVRYlBJFTaZgAY-3nXh13GhXl4ExdybdzTf7zP6c/s1600/MBMG5%20-%20DIAMOND%20CUBE%20DESIGNED%20BY%20MADHURA%20GUPTA.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="The Diamond Cube" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKerZbMHlhRJQzYC8lpqSTk9DbEHbUxUXjNIaEEkhyLoxVNPucXMKh3y0CVptzww7sSHjeU2K-kj9dG45qghrYJIIk27Ob3qG_ShNX2pInIps9xMgE-EnOn4Ad9JUALYP2iSqNcxyxjqAxp9tXP5nAVRYlBJFTaZgAY-3nXh13GhXl4ExdybdzTf7zP6c/s320/MBMG5%20-%20DIAMOND%20CUBE%20DESIGNED%20BY%20MADHURA%20GUPTA.jpg" width="180" /></a></div> The image shows the completed Diamond Cube.<br />It is folded from colored squares, which form a striking, cymmetrical pattern, with an elongated diamond visible on each face of the cube.<br /><br />Credits and Resources:<br />Designer/Creator: Madhura Gupta<br />Website: <a href="https://madhura-gupta.com" target="_blank">madhura-gupta.com</a><br />Instagram: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/tinnifolds/" target="_blank">@tinnifolds</a><br />Text-Only Instructions: Nishi Sakpal, Mumbai, India<br />via <a href="https://accessorigami.com" target="_blank">accessorigami.com</a><br />With thankful acknowledgement to Madhura Gupta for teaching this model - March 2024<br />Folder: Nishi Sakpal<br />For any questions, comments or suggestions, email accessorigami@gmail.com<br /><br />Description and more information:<br />This cube is assembled from 6 units folded from square paper.<br />You may use big squares in the beginning till you get the hang of folding this cube.<br />Try to use paper of a medium thickness, especially when folding this model for the first time.<br />The finished model is a fairly sturdy, closed cube with a beautiful cymmetrical pattern on all faces. The design on each face of the cube can be described as bands that seem to be wrapped across the center of the cube, with elongated diamond shapes as a feature that lies across each of the bands.<br />If folded from duo paper, the diamonds will show up in a different color from the rest of the cube.<br /><br />There are 16 steps for folding A unit.<br />Step 1<br />Place a square piece of paper down on a hard, flat surface so that it forms a diamond shape.<br />Step 2<br />Bring the left point over to meet the right point. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 3<br />Bring the top point down to meet the bottom point. Crease and unfold.<br />There will be two diagonal creases formed with a Centerpoint.<br />Step 4<br />Fold all four corners to the center-point and creese well.<br />This fold is called a Blintz base in origami.<br />Step 5<br />Flip the paper over so that all the triangles which you have folded are touching the table, and the smooth side of the square is facing the ceiling.<br />Turn the square with the edges left and right, top and bottom.<br />Step 6<br />Fold both the top and bottom edges to the center horizontal crease line.<br />The square should have formed into a rectangle placed in landscape mode.<br />Step 7<br />Now, without disturbing the orientation of the paper gently lift up The top part of the rectangle and slowly unfold the triangle lying beneath.<br />Repeat the same step on the bottom half as well.<br />You should now have a triangle facing away from you on the top half of the rectangle and a triangle facing you on the bottom half of the rectangle.<br />Step 8<br />Fold the bottom triangle up and the top triangle down so their points touch each other and the center horizontal line.<br />This will be very easy since you are just reversing the creases that have been made in Step 6.<br />Crease very well and unfold.<br />Explanation<br />Up to this point our model has been flat on the table. The next steps will involve lifting a part of the model and holding the paper at a 90 degree angle in relation to the table.<br />Note that the model is divided into a top and bottom rectangle by a slit that lies across the model from left to right.<br />We will work on the bottom half of the model first, then turn it around and repeat the same steps with the remaining half.<br />Step 9<br />Working with the half of the rectangle nearest you, lift up the double-layered rectangle and bring it towards you, into an upright position.<br />You should still have the triangle nearest you flat on your folding surface.<br />Note that the rectangle you are holding, which we will call a wall, forms a 90 degree angle with the triangle that is still flat on the table.<br />Focus on the foldline that separates the wall and the flat triangle. <br />Explanation<br />What you would like to do is to unite that foldline with the fold making up the top of the wall, effectively valley folding the top layer of the wall in half.<br />I can only describe this as a shifting fold since you will move the fold at the bottom upwards to meet the top, but keeping the triangle as is in the process, until the fold is done, after which you will flip the triangle over the wall.<br />So, use both hands and bring the bottom fold upwards to meet the closed edge of the top of the wall.<br />In this process, you should also let the triangle rise and tumble right over the wall so it comes to rest on the inside of the wall.<br />You could say it will be hanging upside down now.<br />Put in another way, you will fold the wall in half by bringing the bottom fold up to the top. Let the triangle rise into the air and flip away from you. It will hang on the other side of the wall. Its point will touch the bottom edge of the wall.<br />The outcome of this fold is that, nearest you, your wall will now have a single layer at its bottom half and 3 layers on the top with the triangle draped over the top of the wall.<br />Step 10<br />Once you are sure your wall has been folded properly, flip the triangle that is hanging on the side furthest away from you, back towards you.<br />Its bottom point will almost touch your folding surface.<br />Step 11<br />You can now press the wall and the triangle flat, away from you.<br />Step 12<br />Once you fold down the paper properly, you will see that the flap you have placed down has 4 layers: the wall, nearest the table, then a two-layered band and nearest the ceiling, the single-layered triangle.<br />Step 13<br />Take the corner of the triangle, which will be nearest you, and tuck it in under the band.<br />Put in another way, tuck the point in between the wall and the band by folding it away from you using a mountain fold.<br />Step 14<br />Turn the model 180 degrees and repeat the same steps as described above with the other wall and triangle, and forme the other band, also tucking in the point of the triangle as described.<br />Step 15<br />Now, flip the rectangle over and position it in portrait mode.<br />Step 16<br />Fold the top and bottom edges to the center and crease well.<br />Result: If you flip this unit back over, you will see that the two bands have formed into an elongated diamond shape.<br />The diamond has a slit at its center. The slit in the center will not be used, but underneath the bands, you will find pockets where the units are going to be inserted<br />So, always be sure that you are sliding the flaps of the units into the pockets under the bands and not, inadvertently, into the central slit on each face of the cube.<br /><br />Fold five more units.<br /><br />For assembling the cube:<br />Step 17<br />Hold one unit in your left-hand with the band running vertically and the pockets on the left, and right, and the two flaps facing the table.<br />hold the other unit in the right hand with the flaps on the left and right side, and the band running horizontally and the pockets facing the top and bottom.<br />Now gently insert the left flap of the unit which you are holding in your right hand into the right pocket of the unit which you are holding in your left hand.<br />Once the right flap is properly secured in the left pocket you will feel like you are holding a small book with the 2 open edges facing on the left and right sides, the flaps facing away from you and the closed side facing you.<br />If this is what you get, you are correct in assembling the first two units.<br />Do not change the orientation of these two units<br />Step 18<br />If you feel the unit on the right, you will find that there are two pockets one up and one down.<br />Take one flap of the third unit and gently insert it into the pocket nearest you.<br />You will have to pick up the maudle gently to do so.<br />The unit should slide in very easily in the lower horizontal pocket of the right unit.<br />Now you will have the three joined units with their bands as follows, the vertical on the very left the horizontal in the center and the vertical below that.<br />If this is the shape that you achieve, your assembly is going perfectly.<br />Step 19<br /> Next, you will have to insert the bottom loose flap of the very left unit into the vertical pocket of the very right unit before you proceed further.<br />This is the point where you will change your flat model into a 3D shape.<br />For this, pick up the model in your right hand to make the assembly easier.<br />So, take the bottom left flap and bring it over toward the right, rotating it in the process. It will move halfway in front of the piece on the right and slide into the left pocket of the unit. so that the 3 units you have will fold in on themselves, collapsing or folding together away from you into a 3D shape.<br />Once you understand which flap should go into which pocket, feel free to turn the model in whichever way is comfortable for you to complete this step.<br />If you have completed the last step your cube will be 3D with 3 of its sides loosely connected, namely the bottom, left and front sides.<br />Half of your cube is already done.<br />Step 20<br /> Whilst holding your half-constructed cube in your left hand, take the fourth unit in your right hand and slide its left flap into the vertical pocket of the half-made cube.<br /> The vertical pocket will be on the left, so you will slide in your fourth unit from the back or a point furthest away from you.<br />Step 21<br />After this unit is secured, you will find that there is a loose flap behind this newly inserted unit. <br />Gently lift it and slide it into the horizontal pocket of the newly inserted unit which is the fourth unit.<br />Now you will only have two open sides left of the almost-completed cube, namely the right and top sides.<br />Step 22<br />Place the cube in such a way that the open side with the two loose flaps are facing the ceiling and the open side with only one flap is facing you.<br />Take the fifth unit and insert one of its flaps into the horizontal pocket which is furthest away from you.<br />Once it is secured, gently lift up the two flaps, which will be on the left and right and insert them in the left and right pockets of the fifth unit.<br />Step 23<br />Turn the cube so you have a model which resembles an open box with two flaps inside it.<br /> Orient the cube in such a way that the flaps will be on the left and right, and there will be two horizontal pockets one facing you and one facing away from you.<br />Insert one of the flaps of the sixth unit in the horizontal pocket furthest away from you.<br />Once it is secured, lift up the two flaps which are on the left and right sides of the cube.<br /> Gently insert these flaps into the two vertical pockets of the sixth unit.<br />Step 24<br /> Only a single flap is remaining at the front of your cube, wich has to be inserted into the horizontal pocket nearest to it.<br /><br />You will have a very elegant looking cube with horizontal and vertical bands in the center and a beautiful design on the sides.<br />I hope you have fun folding an assembling it as I did.<br />Making origami accessible to all through text-only instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />This text - copyright by accessorigami.com - 2024 <br /><p></p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-74837929219604697082024-03-08T02:35:00.000-08:002024-03-08T02:38:43.671-08:00MDL0093 - ORIGAMI - PULL TAB LETTERFOLD (FROM A RECTANGLE)<p><br />Text-Only Instructions -<br />Credits and Resources:<br />This is a traditional origami fold.<br />You can find pictures and instructions for this model at</p><p><a href="https://itrydiy.me/2016/01/how-to-fold-a-letter-into-a-pull-tab-note/" target="_blank">I Try DIY</a><br />Paper to be used: Rectangular, any size; use large paper, copy or printer paper will work well.<br />Folding level: Easy/Beginner<br />Steps: 10<br />Description: This is a fairly small, secure, flat envelope or letterfold. The back of the letterfold is divided into two square pockets next to each other with the openings along the horizontal center.<br />The front is divided into three parts, which include two triangles at the top, another two at the bottom, and a flap, the pull tab, at the center of the envelope.<br />Remarks:<br />The main characteristic of this letterfold is the pull tab, which allows the recipient to pull the envelope open by simply locating and pulling the center flap at the front.<br />It is sometimes called a "bus note" because it is quite difficult to refold. It is hoped that, because of this, the recipient will keep the note folded until he or she is on the bus, after a summer camp, holiday or tour, for instance.<br />When presenting your note, consider explaining the opening process.<br />Small objects or messages could also be hidden in the pockets at the front of the letterfold. <br />These could be indicated by e.g. a 1 and a 2 and then the tab as 3. Or write a riddle so the person could take out two gifts before pulling the note open with a final message.<br />This envelope can be used in scrap books, on top of gifts, for enclosing cards, notes, money, any small, flat object or to make an advent calendar.<br />Make 24 of them and Secure with a sticker or a dab of glue after they have been filled.<br />If using two-sided paper, lay your paper with the patterned or colored side down before starting to fold.<br />Step 1<br />Place a rectangular sheet down with the short edges facing left and right, or in the landscape orientation.<br />Step 2<br />Fold the top edge down to meet the bottom edge. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 3<br />Fold the two top corners downwards toward the center, aligning the edges with the horizontal crease line you folded in Step 2.<br />Crease well and leave folded.<br />Step 4<br />Fold the two bottom corners upwards toward the center, aligning the edges with the same horizontal crease.<br />Crease well and leave folded.<br />You will now have a six-sided shape.<br />Step 5<br />Fold the top and bottom edges of the paper inwards so they meet on the horizontal center line.<br />Crease and leave folded.<br />Your paper will now resemble a long strip with a point on each side.<br />Step 6<br />Fold the two points inwards on themselves, so that the sides of your paper will have a straight edge.<br />You will be left with a rectangle that is divided into 4 sections, the two triangles on the sides and two flat parts in the middle, divided by a horizontal center line.<br />Make sure all your corners are straight at this point.<br />Step 7<br />Flip your paper over so your rectangle has a smooth surface and keep it positioned with the short edges at the left and right.<br />Step 8<br />fold about a third of the paper to the right, to reveal a triangular flap created earlier and two small pockets at the top and bottom left edge of the model.<br />Press the large triangle, that will point to the right, flat and only crease lightly along the left edge for now.<br />Step 9<br />Now fold over the right edge towards the left, tucking it in under the two small pockets you created in the previous step.<br />Before creasing, gently press the model into shape along its sides so that the corners on the left overlap the edge underneath it.<br />The paper should be folded over into thirds at this point if all went well.<br />Then crease very well on the left and right sides of the envelope.<br />Step 10<br />The loose two-layered flap at the center of your note that is pointing to the right, is the pull tab.<br />To open, lightly holding the letterfold on its left side in the portrait orientation, pull the flap gently to the right to open your envelope.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, May 2019<br />Revised: July 2023</p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-79512138750402026832024-02-29T05:41:00.000-08:002024-02-29T05:41:32.085-08:00MDL0092 - ORIGAMI - CLOSED CORNER CARD (FROM A RECTANGLE)<p>Text-Only Instructions<br />Credits and Resources:<br />Designer: Lindy van der Merwe<br />Text-only Instructions Copyright 2024 by Lindy van der Merwe<br />If you are aware of any other source where this model or similar might be listed, please let me know so I can reference it under this heading.<br />Paper to be used: Rectangular, any size; Colored A4, legal or copy paper is recommended.<br />Folding level: Easy/Beginner<br />Steps: 10<br />Description: This is a rectangular model that can serve as a gift card holder since it has a fairly secure front pocket. <br />There is another secure pocket accessible from the top of the card once it is opened by unhooking the top right corner.<br />One can also use this as a bookmark since there is a pocket at the back of the card that can be hooked over the corner of a page.<br />Or if you would like to hold some papers together and mark them, this is a good model to use.<br />The diagonal band on the front of the card will be a different color if duo paper is used. This band may provide a nice place to write a person's name.<br />The finished model will be a quarter fold of the paper you start off with. If you use A4 or copy paper, the folded model will be more or less the size of a standard greeting card.<br />The card can also be used in landscape orientation.<br />Remarks:<br />This card can be used in scrap books, on top of gifts, for enclosing cards, notes, money, any small, flat object.<br />The model is quite secure as long as you do not fill it with things that are heavy or bulky.<br />Alternatively, a piece of paper can simply be folded into this model and decorated for a quick children's project or a personal touch.<br />These cards can also be used for advent calenders. Secure with a dab of glue, ribbon or staples after they have been filled.<br />If using two-sided paper, lay your paper with the patterned or colored side down before starting to fold.<br />ORIGAMI - CLOSED CORNER CARD<br />Step 1<br />Place your rectangle in landscape orientation, or with the short edges left and right.<br />Fold the right bottom point diagonally so the right edge meets the top edge of the paper.<br />Make sure that the two edges line up along the top edge of the fold in order to create a pointy triangle on the right of the paper.<br />Step 2<br />Fold the single-layered rectangle on the left over to the right. It will be stopped by the fold you have made previously.<br />Crease the left edge well from top to bottom and leave folded.<br />Step 3<br />Using the left side of the card as your guide, fold the top edge down to meet the bottom edge. Leave folded.<br />You will have a rectangle on the left with a triangle on the right, sloping down to the right bottom of the shape.<br />Step 4<br />Flip the entire model over from top to bottom. <br />You will now have a rectangle on the left with a triangular shape on top of it and on the right there will be a triangular flap with its point to the right.<br />Step 5<br />Now fold the triangle on the right over as far as it will go. It will be stopped by the edge of the rectangle on the left.<br />Crease well on the right edge.<br />-Step 6<br />Unfold the triangle again and now fold it to the back of the rectangle, using a mountain fold.<br />Press flat.<br />Step 7<br />Flip the model from left to right. You will have a large triangle on the top left with a smaller 90 degree corner at the bottom right as well as a tiny triangle at the very left bottom of the pocket.<br />Step 8<br />Now take the loose point of the triangle that is sticking out on the right and fold it diagonally upwards, so its long, right edge meets the left vertical edge of the paper. Crease well and leave folded.<br />You will now have a rectangle nearest your folding surface and on top of it, a long, skinny triangle with its top point extending above the rectangle on the left.<br />Step 9<br />Flip the model over from left to right.<br />There will now be a point sticking out from behind the pocket. Fold the point straight down and crease well.<br />Step 10<br />Lastly, move the triangular point, which is also a pocket, slightly to the right and tuck it over the top right corner of the pocket card.<br />It will lock the card in place with a diagonal opening where you can insert a card or write a name.<br /> If you dislodge the top triangle or closure entirely, there is a totally closed pocket at the top of the card, which is even more secure.<br /> Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, December 2018<br />Revised: January 2024<br /> </p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-20012172522152921732024-02-18T10:18:00.000-08:002024-02-20T14:16:03.780-08:00MDL0091 - ORIGAMI - SIMPLE FLOWER BY PAUL JACKSON (FROM A SQUARE) <p><span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNUY86YZZxefTGe9xmviL9kotUoVU7vzGzE8gXdn9e-uiczC1vqHjxtQD0CwaK12nUHRMgKQBClr0NL8tJ7IljB_Sn-FiaUVgmVN2JTBKlpYNjMQJnA68f9y0x7uBZUYG3ezhWX9zVj7zhwOzx5UBaH0odGdaKe_vvwJZBn0G7vRAyvVUWIOAGPpCJ52s/s1280/MDL0091%20-%20SIMPLE%20FLOWER%20BY%20PAUL%20JACKSON%20(FROM%20A%20SQUARE).jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="The Simple Flower" border="0" data-original-height="836" data-original-width="1280" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNUY86YZZxefTGe9xmviL9kotUoVU7vzGzE8gXdn9e-uiczC1vqHjxtQD0CwaK12nUHRMgKQBClr0NL8tJ7IljB_Sn-FiaUVgmVN2JTBKlpYNjMQJnA68f9y0x7uBZUYG3ezhWX9zVj7zhwOzx5UBaH0odGdaKe_vvwJZBn0G7vRAyvVUWIOAGPpCJ52s/s320/MDL0091%20-%20SIMPLE%20FLOWER%20BY%20PAUL%20JACKSON%20(FROM%20A%20SQUARE).jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>The image <span> </span>displays a blue origami flower placed on a textured green surface.<br />Description by Copilot, Your everyday AI
companion Windows 11 - Edited - February 2024<br /><br />Text-Only Instructions<br />Credits and Resources:<br />Designer/Creator: Paul Jackson - copyright UK and Israel, 1989 - 2024<br />For photo instructions, visit <br /><span><a href="https://origami-resource-center.com/buttonhole-flowers/" target="_blank">origami-resource-center</a></span><br />Text-Only instructions in Danish: Copyright Hans Dybkjær, <a href="http://papirfoldning.dk" target="_blank">papirfoldning.dk</a>, 2023.<br /><a href="https://origamiforblinde.dk/da/vejledning/simpelblomst.html" target="_blank">simpelblomst</a><br />Text-Only Instructions in English: Copyright Lindy van der Merwe, <a href="https://accessorigami.com" target="_blank">accessorigami.com</a>, 2024<br /><a href="https://www.accessorigami.com/2024/02/mdl0091-origami-simple-flower-by-paul.html" target="_blank">simple-flower</a><br />With thankful acknowledgement to Hans for explanation and assistance via email.<br />Photo: Hans Dybkjær - February 2024<br />Steps: 16<br />Folding level: Easy/Beginner<br />For any questions, comments or suggestions, email accessorigami@gmail.com<br />Description and more information:<br />This simple, but beautiful flower, also called the Buttonhole Flower, was designed by Paul Jackson.<br />The
flower is three-dimensional, with four petals that surround a stem. The
stem is hidden within the folds of the paper and can be used to hold
the flower<br />Each petal forms a funnel or cone-like structure with the
opening of the cone that will seem to extend upwards into a narrow
point.<br />Paper to be used: Speciality origami paper or fairly thin colored paper.<br />Any size can be used, though a square of 75 mm or smaller is recommended.<br />This flower looks best when the paper is the same color on both sides.<br />However, some flowers are e.g. light pink on the outside and white on the inside. <br />So,
if you use origami paper that is white on one side and colored on the
other, if you want the inside of the petals to be white, start with the
white side up.<br />Alternatively, if you want the color to be on the inside of the petals, start folding with the colored side up.<br />The inside of the flower will be visible only at the final step of the project.<br />NOTE: This model starts from the Waterbomb or Balloon Base. <br /> If you are able to achieve this without instructions, fold the base, then go to Step 9.<br />You can also learn about the Waterbomb and other origami bases at the following link:<br /><a href="https://www.accessorigami.com/p/introduction-to-folds-and-bases-used-in.html" target="_blank">introduction-to-folds-and-bases-used-in-origami</a><br />Step 1<br />Position a square of paper on your work surface so that its edges are facing up and down, left and right. <br />If preferred, you can also hold your paper in the air while folding.<br />Step 2<br />Bring the left edge over to meet the right edge. Crease and unfold. <br />Step 3<br />Bring the top edge down to meet the bottom edge. Crease and unfold. <br />Step 4<br />Turn the paper over and position the square so that its points are facing up and down, left and right. <br />Step 5<br />Bring the left point over to meet the right point. Crease and unfold. <br />Step 6<br />Bring the top point down to meet the bottom point. Crease and leave folded. <br />Step 7<br />Grasp
the resulting triangle at its left and right sides and push inward. The
folds you made previously should allow the model to collapse into a
triangular shape with one folded flap sticking out towards the front of
the model and one sticking out towards the back. <br />Step 8<br />Fold the front flap to the left and fold the back flap to the right so that your model will lie flat. <br />The model will have one open end, which should be facing away from you.<br />Think of the four flaps as four petals for the next steps.<br />Each petal is comprised of two layers and is also a pocket than can be opened from above.<br />Nearest you there will be a closed point where all the layers of the model come together.<br />Step 9<br />Flip the two petals on the right side over to the left so that all four petals are gathered on the left.<br />The petals should all be stacked on top of each other now.<br />Make sure that the right, closed edge of the model is in a vertical position for the next steps.<br />This edge will form the stem of the flower, and should therefore be upright before continuing.<br />Keep
in mind that the top right point will become the center of the flower,
while the pointed end at the bottom will become the point of the stem
that you will be able to hold between your fingers.<br />Step 10<br />Fold the two petals on the left back to the right again, but now tilting them at an angle.<br />The
fold line you want to make here will start at the top right corner and
go down to the left, ending about 5mm from the right bottom corner if
you are using a square of 75 mm.<br />Put in another way, once completed,
it should be a fairly long, diagonal pleat fold that, when finished,
should slant from the top right corner downwards ending a little to the
left of the bottom corner.<br />Result: Once done, you will still have the
two petals on the left, with the petals on the right seeming to be in a
lower or upsidedown position.<br />You will know your fold is done correctly, if you have three triangular shapes now:<br />(A) On the left, the original flaps of the Waterbomb base.<br />(B) On the right and seeming as if it is in front or on top of the left triangle, you should have the newly formed triangle.<br />Check that this triangle is positioned so its base is horizontal or runs straight in front of you from left to right.<br />(C)
Just beneath the triangle on the right, the stem will be visible as a
small, third triangle that will be peeking out from behind the shape.<br />Step 11<br />Now,
fold the two petals on the left at the same angle, but this time, using
a mountain fold so they will disappear behind the already folded
petals.<br />The stem will now be hidden within the layers of the flower with just its point poking out on the bottom left.<br />Make sure that all 4 petals are once again stacked nicely on top of each other.<br />Step 12<br />Pick
up and hold the flower by its stem and, with your other hand, start to
rotate the 4 petals so they will form a cross formation if viewed from
above.<br />You are just rotating and positioning the petals for the next step here.<br />If you hold the stem in your right hand, let each petal swing in a different direction.<br />Think of a print letter X or dots 1-3-4-6 in a braille cell.<br />Step 13<br />Insert an index finger into the center of a petal so that it opens all the way down to the tip of the pocket.<br />Step 14<br />Press the tip of your thumb into the center of the petal, all the way to the stem<br />Step 15<br />Do this with all four petals and make sure your petals are all open and neatly formed.<br />Step 16<br />Check that your petals are neatly arranged around your stem so that it will be hidden.<br />The petals should be fully open with their sides touching.<br />There should not be any spaces between the petals.<br />The stem will extend at a slight angle from the bottom of the flower.<br />Your flower is ready!<br />Making origami accessible to those who are blind or visually impaired.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, January 2024<br />This text copyright by accessorigami.com 2024<span> </span></p>
Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-71712278502329776362024-02-07T14:51:00.000-08:002024-03-03T14:40:21.956-08:00MDL0090 - ORIGAMI - SECRET SQUARE LETTERFOLD (FROM A RECTANGLE)<p>Text-Only Instructions -<br />Credits and Resources:<br />This is a traditional model.<br />See, for example, <br /><a href="https://www.wikihow.com/Fold-Paper-Into-a-Secret-Note-Square#:~:text=Grab%20the%20triangle%20sitting%20on,the%20triangles%20in%20the%20square.&text=Grab%20the%20triangle%20on%20the,other%20triangle%20in%20the%20square.&text=Finished.&text=Enjoy%20your%20note%20square!" target="_blank">wikihow.com</a> <br /></p><p>Folding level: Intermediate<br />Paper to be used: Rectangular - this note will only work with a sheet of 8.5 x 11 inch paper (or A4 paper cut to 210 x 271 mm).<br />It will help if the paper is not too thick; thin paper will be easier to fold into this fairly small shape.</p><p>Steps: 10<br />Description: This is one of the many ways to fold an ordinary rectangular piece of paper into an interesting shape.<br />This note is not only one of the smallest notes around, but it has a beautiful pinwheel motif on one side and is smooth on the other.<br />It is the ultimate way to fold a small, secure note in classrooms everywhere.<br />Very small objects can be hidden within the 4 folded triangles of the note or write something on each flap.<br />Remarks:<br />This envelope can be used in scrap books, on top of gifts, for enclosing cards, notes, money, any small, flat object.<br />The model is quite secure as long as you do not fill it with things that are heavy or bulky.<br />Alternatively, a note can simply be folded into this model and decorated for a quick children's project or a personal touch.<br />Fold 24 notes from large squares to make a unique advent calendar.<br />If using two-sided paper, lay your paper with the patterned or colored side down before starting to fold.<br />Step 1<br />Place your paper with the short sides top and bottom, or in the portrait orientation.<br />Step 2<br />Fold the left edge over to meet the right to form a vertical center crease.<br />Keep folded.<br />Step 3<br />Repeat the same fold once more so you will end up with a long, narrow strip of paper that is four layers thick.<br />Step 4<br />Position the paper so the long strip lies in front of you from left to right.<br />It does not matter if the raw edges are at the top or bottom.<br />Step 5<br />Fold and unfold the strip by bringing the left edge over to meet the right edge.<br />You would like to create a fold line to mark the vertical center of the strip.<br />Step 6<br />Fold a triangle over on each corner but in opposite directions.<br />So, fold the top left corner down at a 45 degree angle and crease well while folding the top right corner up at a similar angle.<br />Put in another way, bring the left, short edge of the strip diagonally down and to the right to meet the bottom of the strip.<br />On the right, bring the right, short edge diagonally up and to the left to meet the top edge of the strip.<br />Result: You will have an extremely long paralellogram.<br />If you start at the center of the strip and move left, you will find a folded-over triangle with its sharp point at the bottom left of the strip;<br />if you start at the center of the strip and move right, you will find another folded-over triangle, but this one will have its sharp point at the top right of the strip.<br /> Step 7<br />Next, you are going to make two more opposite folds with the folded triangles.<br />This time, keeping the left triangle folded, fold it inwards and down and over the strip so it comes to rest at the bottom of the strip. <br />Put in another way, focus on the triangle on the left. It's edge nearest the center of the strip will be vertical.<br />Take the triangle and fold it diagonally downwards and to the right so that it folds completely over the strip and the vertical edge becomes horizontal. The edge should line up with the bottom, horizontal edge of the strip itself.<br />The triangle that was at the left end of the strip will now have changed position. It will actually now lie at the bottom left of the strip.<br />It is a bit like folding a book closed, but in a diagonal and downward direction.<br />Result: You will now have a long, diamond-shaped fold on the left of your strip.<br />The surface of the diamond will be smooth and it will seem to be at a slight angle in relation to the strip itself.<br />If you lift up the bottom point of the diamond, you will find that the triangle that was facing you in Step 6, will now face the table.<br />Step 8<br />Repeat this fold on the right side, but in the opposite direction.<br />So, keeping the right triangle folded, fold it away from you and up and across the strip so it comes to rest at the top of the strip. <br />Result: You will now have a long, diamond-shaped fold on the top right of your strip.<br />Looking at the entire strip, You will now have a rectangle at the horizontal center with a skinny diamond shape on each side, one pointing to the left and down and the other pointing to the right and up.<br />If you were to think of this shape in terms of 3 braille characters, you would have on the left, dots 3-5, at the center, dots 2-5, and on the right, the letter i or dots 2-4.<br />If you start at the bottom left, it is like walking up a staircase, then on a flat walkway, followed by another upwards staircase on the right.<br />Step 9<br />Explanation<br />Notice that you have a smooth piece of paper, the walkway, at the very center of the strip. You will now fold the left and right sides of the model straight over so the triangles will meet each other to cover the center of the strip.<br />Depending on how accurate you have folded and if you have the correct A4-sized paper, the space left open at the center of the strip should be a square.<br />If it is a rectangle, your secret note will not close properly.<br />This is a kind of flip fold, where you take the staircase on the left and flip it over to the right, using the vertical line just where the staircase ends.<br />Do the same with the top staircase on the right.<br />As you make the flip folds from the left and right, you should find that you have two triangles meeting each other across the center square.<br />Looking at what were the staircases, the smooth surface should now be hidden and you will once again discover the very first triangle you folded, this time at a point nearest you on the left and on the right, you will find the first triangle you folded on that side, at a point furthest away from you.<br />In fact, what was the left, bottom staircase will now look like two triangles forming a diamond shape on the left bottom of your model and there will be a similar diamond shape, made of two triangles on the top right.<br />Step 10<br />Now, consider that your model has three parts:<br />First,the center square that is made up of two triangles that should meet each other perfectly with a diagonal fold line running from top left to bottom right.<br />Second, a triangle at the top, sloping to the top left; and<br />Third, a similar triangle at the bottom, sloping to the bottom right.<br />To close your secret square:<br />Fold the top triangle down over the center square, tucking it into the diagonal fold nearest it and then repeat with the remaining bottom triangle.<br />Make sure you find the correct pocket for this last triangle.<br />Your secret note square is complete.<br />You will know it has been folded correctly if you have a small square with one smooth side and on the other side there should be 4 triangular flaps or pockets that all face in the same direction, resembling a pinwheel.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, February 2024<br />This text copyright 2024 by accessorigami.com</p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-9811657072735958322024-02-06T01:47:00.000-08:002024-02-08T02:00:14.694-08:00MDL0089 - ORIGAMI - LAZY SUSAN OR HAPPY BOWL (FROM A SQUARE)<p><span> </span><span> </span>Text-Only Instruc<span> </span>tions<br />Credits and Resources:This is a traditional model.<br />Video instructions are available on Youtube by<br /><a href="https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=happy+puppy+truffels+lazy+susan#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:d3c81d7d,vid:BhFHJaB7_48,st:0" target="_blank">Happy Puppy Truffels</a><br />Paper to be used: Square, any size; for a useful party bowl, use a square of 20 cm or larger.<br />Folding level: Easy/Beginner<br />Steps: 15<br />Description: This is a fairly shallow open tray or dish.<br />It has five compartments - a star-shaped compartment at the center surrounded by four more that are vaguely oval in shape.<br />The ovals are quite deep while the central compartment is more shallow and seems to be raised above the surface of the table.<br />This dish is also sometimes called a Happy Bowl.<br />If it is folded from large, sturdy squares, it makes excellent bowls for any occasion.<br />NOTE: This model starts from the blintz base. If you are able to achieve this without instructions, fold the blintz base once, then go to Step 6.<br />You can also learn about the Blintz and other origami bases at the following link:<br />https://www.accessorigami.com/p/introduction-to-folds-and-bases-used-in.html<br />Step 1<br />Place a square down with its edges to the left and right, top and bottom.<br />Step 2<br />Fold the square in half in both directions, by bringing the opposite edges together, unfolding each time.<br />Result: You will have two valley creases crossing each other at the center of the square now, or a print plus sign.<br />Step 3<br />Now, fold the square in half diagonally in both directions, by bringing its opposite corners together, unfolding each time.<br />Result: You will have eight valley lines or a print asterisk.<br />Step 4<br />Make the blintz fold by using the method you prefer to fold all four corners in to meet at the center of the square.<br />When pressed flat, you should end up with a smaller square-shaped model divided into 4 triangles.<br />Make sure that, as far as possible, all outside corners are folded neatly at a 90 degree angle and that the crease lines all lie straight and meet precisely in the center of the square.<br />Step 5<br />Now, fold all 4 single-layered flaps outwards to meet the edges of the square.<br />Try to fold as straight as possible here, placing each point exactly at the center point of each edge.<br />The result will be a model that resembles a square picture frame with a triangular flap lieing on top of each edge.<br />Step 6<br />Flip the model over from right to left to reveal a smooth surface on the other side of the paper.<br />Step 7<br />Using the center point of the model, make a cupboard fold by bringing the left and right edges to meet each other at the center vertical crease line.<br />Make nice creases on each side and unfold.<br />Step 8<br />Turn your square 90 degrees to the right and repeat the cupboard fold with the edges that are now on the left and right.<br />Crease well and unfold.<br />Step 9<br />Flip the model back over from left to right.<br />We now want to accentuate the creases we just created.<br />If you think of the model as a picture frame, you would now want to fold along the inside of the frame, using a mountain fold.<br />This step is more a pinching action than a fold.<br />Note that we try here to only fold the center of each edge, leaving the corners unfolded.<br />The corners might stand at awkward angles, but try to ignore them for this step.<br />You want to cause the flat paper to fold away from you and stand at a 90 degree angle.<br />So, start at the edge furthest away from you and pinch along the first crease line from the top until the paper bends away from you at a 90 degree angle.<br />Step 10<br />Turn the model to the right to find the next edge and repeat the previous step.<br />Result: You would like to create something that looks like a square table with corners that jut out to the outside of the fold.<br />Step 11<br />Flip the table so it is upside down.<br />Step 12<br />You are now going to work on the corners by pushing their points to the inside.<br />The folds you have already created will help you here.<br />Result: All four corners should now be located on the inside of the square table or box.<br />Don't try to press the corners flat against the sides of the box. Just leave them as they are for the next step to work.<br />Step 13<br />Flip the model back over so the table is once again standing up in the correct way.<br />Step 14<br />You are now going to collapse your table into a flat rectangular shape.<br />To do this:<br />14.1 Rotate your table so its corner points are on the left and right or so it is in a diamond formation.<br />14.2 Gently hold the left and right corners between your thumbs and forefingers.<br />14.3 At the same time, push inwards from the sides and downwards at the very center of the model.<br />Result: The paper will collapse inwards into a kind of star shape.<br />14.4 Rotate your star shape slightly so that you have two arms on the left and two on the right.<br />Result: These arms will seem to form a print letter X or put in another way, the four arms of the star will seem to radiate out diagonally from the center of the shape.<br />14.5 Grasp the two points on the left with the fingers of one hand and the two points on the right, with the fingers of the other hand; then, bring your fingers together until your model is completely flat.<br />Put in another way, squeeze two points together on the left and the other two on the right. The star will fold in on itself with two points now on the left and the other two on the right.<br />The shape should be completely flat, but you will be holding it upright between your fingers for the next steps.<br />Result: You will end up with a multi-layered rectangle that has one single-layered triangular flap at the back and another at the front.<br />Step 15<br />After all this, it is time to open up your bowl.<br />15.1 Start with the side of the rectangle nearest you.<br />Just behind the triangle, you will find a pocket.<br />Gently poke a finger inside and pull the side of the bowl towards you.<br />Just pull it as far as it will go for now.<br />15.2 Do the same with the side of the bowl furthest away from you.<br />15.3 Turn the model so that the open sides are on the left and right and repeat the previous steps.<br />Result: You want to open all four sides of the bowl into compartments that will be vaguely triangular in shape.<br />The bottom of each compartment will be slightly rounded.<br />Pinch each corner of the bowl from the outside and the inside a few times.<br />Take your time to shape the four compartments so they become as rounded and as open as possible.<br />15.4 At the center of the Lazy Susan you will find a beautiful star-shaped compartment which is slightly higher than or raised above the rest of the bowls around it.<br />Be sure to pinch the divisions between all the compartments so that the one at the center is a nice size. It should not be too small or too large in relation to the rest of the bowls.<br />Pinch extra hard to set the creases on the inside of the model since they will tend to revert back to their flat, rectangular shape.<br />Lastly, you can leave the outer edges of your bowl round or if preferred, you can make a very small pinch at the center of each edge, halfway between the corner pillars of the bowl.<br />This will give the side compartments a slightly triangular shape.<br />You can now display your beautiful bowl as is of fill it with treats for a special occasion.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, January 2024<br />This text copyright 2024 by <a href="https://accessorigami.com" target="_blank">accessorigami.com</a></p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-40224268475169155552024-02-01T07:23:00.000-08:002024-02-09T00:00:43.622-08:00METHODS FOR FOLDING A GRID<p>Grids can also be considered bases in origami. There are various types of grids and various ways to fold each type. There are, for example, relatively simple 2 by 2, 4 by 4 or 8 by 8 grids, but also 7 by 7, 10 by 10 and so on.<br /><br />Tip: If, for some reason, you need a grid such as a 5 by 5, 6 by 6 or 7 by 7 grid, fold the grid in whichever way you prefer, then tear or cut off the extra rows of the 8 by 8 grid.<br />My thanks and appreciation to Ilan Garibi for teaching me this very useful technique.<br /><br />You might ask why one would need to fold a grid?<br />Grids may be folded for various reasons, such as:<br />* simply to make a pleasing pattern on a sheet of paper in an art class;<br />* to prepare for folding a tessallation, a type of origami that makes repeating patterns on paper;<br />* a grid could be part of a frame for a photo or the lid of a box;<br />* some origami models rely on first folding a grid in order to fold the actual model.<br />* folding and using a grid is an excellent educational tool in subjects like maths, science, economics, art and in general, actually.<br />* since in origami the grid is tactual, it is especially helpful for students who are blind or visually impaired<br />* you could play a game on a folded grid. This is particularly helpful when you are blind and want to play games such as naughts and crosses or dice games where you have to jump from block to block.<br />* A grid can also be used for art activities for blind or visually impaired children, including folding, cutting, coloring, etc. <br /><br />Keeping the above variables in mind, the descriptions below should get you started on how to fold some basic grids.<br /><br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">FOLDING A GRID - METHOD 1</h2><p>by Nishi Sakpal, Mumbai, India<br />The instructions below are for an 8 by 8 grid folded using a square, meaning the square will end up having 64 blocks of equal size.<br /> If you have done accordion folds or bases, folding a grid is somewhat similar, except that where the accordion folds usually create panels or lines across the paper, a grid will be folded lines in both directions, thus creating blocks across your paper.<br /> <br />Put in another way, you will only need to know how to make seven horizontal folds for this grid.<br />You will then simply turn your paper 90 degrees so all your lines would then be vertical (running from top to bottom).<br />The same seven folds will then be repeated with the square in the new position, which will produce a very accurate grid.<br /><br />Keep in mind that the instructions below are very detailed, so might seem tedious the first time you fold a grid. If you are a beginner folder or just want a systematic way of making pleats or grids, try the instructions out a few times. Once you understand the sequence and method of folding you won't need them any longer. <br /><br />Paper used: Square<br />1. Place your square down with its edges left and right, top and bottom.<br /><br />2. Valley fold the bottom edge up to meet the top edge.<br />Crease and unfold.<br /><br />3. Valley fold both top and bottom edges to meet the center horizontal crease line.<br />Crease and unfold.<br />Result: You will have 3 valley creases now.<br /><br />4. Repeat the previous step, but now fold the top and bottom edges in to meet the first crease lines from the top and the bottom.<br />Crease and unfold.<br />Result: You will have 5 valley creases now.<br /><br />5. Take the bottom edge and fold it upwards to meet the second crease line from the top.<br />Crease well and unfold.<br /><br />6. Take the top edge and fold it downwards to meet the second crease line from the bottom.<br />Crease well and unfold.<br />Result: You will have 7 valley creases now, dividing your square sheet into 8 long panels.<br /><br />7. Turn your square 90 degrees to the left or right, so that the crease lines now run vertically or from top to bottom.<br /><br />8. Repeat Steps 2 to 7, forming another 7 creases that will divide your square into 64 small blocks.<br /> </p><p>If you count from the top block on the lefthand side, the first row will contain 8 blocks. Similarly, the row on the left will also contain 8 squares if you count from top to bottom.<br />Make sure that you can clearly feel all the grid lines. If you find that some lines seem faint, make a valley fold to accentuate these vertical or horizontal lines.<br /><br />Your 8 by 8 grid is ready for use.<br />With thankful acknowledgement to Nishi Sakpal for her instruction and help with compiling this document.<br /></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"> </h2><h2 style="text-align: left;">FOLDING A GRID - METHOD 2 <br /></h2><p>To fold an 8 by 8 grid across a square or rectangle, you can also use accordion folds.<br />To use this method, first fold your square or rectangle by using the instructions on this page.<br /></p><p><a href="https://www.accessorigami.com/2022/11/the-accordion-base-folding-square-or_23.html" target="_blank">THE ACCORDION BASE - FOLDING A SQUARE OR RECTANGLE HORIZONTALLY </a><br /><br />You will then simply turn your paper 90 degrees so all your lines would then be vertical (running from top to bottom).<br />The same seven folds will then be repeated with the square in the new position, which will produce a very accurate grid.<br /></p><p>Adapted from original Source: The Aveuglami Project, Folding Sheet, Accordion Base<br />Author: Traditional<br />Website: <a href="http://aveuglami.fr/AveuglamiWeb/fichesNV/nvaccueil.php?acces=NV&bckgcol=FFFFFF&fsize=12pt&charcol=000000&fweight=plain" target="_blank">The Aveuglami Project by </a>Michel Lucas</p><p>This text copyright by accessorigami.com - 2024<span> </span><span> </span><br /></p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-64449254174106942472024-01-30T09:09:00.000-08:002024-01-31T12:05:07.733-08:00MBMG4 - RAPID WREATH DESIGNED BY MADHURA GUPTA (FROM 8 TRIANGLES)<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv5ugUks6jhXwwy1_RFMJXUGu2vxGT8fqnWQJAoBH8yybGAyCLUxu4k2QC9FuSJKJ1rZvph6dA4x5WAp1SrInzao1rRfEHNghbEfRoaYS0-uvPuCSnsDlivFlTwO83KRP9nZhpfQ8bt_nUuOwvCL87-ZYQSjXyVVLHTait5U52QKTEBE8IDhaV5yc8FkY/s651/MBMG4%20-%20RAPID%20WREATH%20DESIGNED%20BY%20MADHURA%20GUPTA.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span> </span><img alt="The Rapid Wreath" border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="651" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv5ugUks6jhXwwy1_RFMJXUGu2vxGT8fqnWQJAoBH8yybGAyCLUxu4k2QC9FuSJKJ1rZvph6dA4x5WAp1SrInzao1rRfEHNghbEfRoaYS0-uvPuCSnsDlivFlTwO83KRP9nZhpfQ8bt_nUuOwvCL87-ZYQSjXyVVLHTait5U52QKTEBE8IDhaV5yc8FkY/s320/MBMG4%20-%20RAPID%20WREATH%20DESIGNED%20BY%20MADHURA%20GUPTA.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span>The image shows the completed Rapid Wreath.<br />It is folded from yellow paper and presented on a colorful background.<br /><br />Credits and Resources:<br />Designer/Creator: Madhura Gupta<br />Website: <a href="https://madhura-gupta.com" target="_blank">madhura-gupta.com</a><br />Instagram: @tin<a href="https://www.instagram.com/tinnifolds/" target="_blank">@tinnifolds</a>nifolds - https://www.instagram.com/tinnifolds/<br />Text-Only Instructions: Nishi Sakpal, Mumbai, India<br />via <a href="https://accessorigami.com" target="_blank">accessorigami.com</a><br />With thankful acknowledgement to Madhura Gupta for teaching this model - January 2024<br />Folder: Nishi Sakpal<br />For any questions, comments or suggestions, email accessorigami@gmail.com<br /><br />Description and more information:<br />This is the Rapid Wreath designed by Madhura Gupta.<br />This wreath is folded and assembled by joining 8 units folded from 4 right angle triangles which are obtained from 2 squares folded into diagonals, and then by cutting along the creases.<br />The outline of the model has a fairly round appearance, but is actually in the shape of an octagon. The opening at the center of the wreath is also eight-sided. The surface of the model is beautifully textured, with long, folded bands that crisscross as they are assembled at cymmetrical angles. The back side of the wreath is quite smooth with a kind of wavy pattern, featuring small triangles that seem to point in opposite directions.<br />This wreath won the 2nd place in the category for "Folding Process (Abstract) of the Joisel Awards 2023.<br />This is a beautiful model to display or use as an ornament for any festive occasion.<br /><br />Please note that there are two different ways to choose from for the folding and assembly of this wreath.<br />Method 1 (original) - In this method the folding and assembly is done simultaneously. This is achieved by making just one fold for each module. The rest of the folds are actually part of the assembly.<br />For this technique, you will have to do multiple folds while you are constructing the circular wreath.<br />If you find this method challenging, you can try the second technique.<br />Method 2 (alternative) - This method may be slightly easier. It involves the more traditional way of first folding all the units and then assembling them into the wreath.<br /><br /> For convenience, I will be dividing this tutorial into the following parts.<br />(a) How to make the triangles;<br />(b) - Folding the units;<br />(c) - Method 1;<br />(d) - Method 2.<br /><br />(a) - Making the triangles<br />Step 1<br />Place a square on a hard surface in the diamond orientation with its points on the top, bottom, left and right.<br />Step 2<br />Make a diagonal fold by bringing the bottom point to the top point.<br />Crease well.<br />Now you will have a triangle with two loose points at the top and the folded horizontal edge at the bottom.<br />Step 3<br />Without disturbing the orientation of the triangle, bring the left point to meet the right point and make a strong fold and unfold.<br />You will feel a vertical crease line running along the center of this triangle.<br />Step 4<br />Gently cut/tear the triangle along this vertical crease from bottom to top.<br />You can cut the triangles in whichever way you prefer.<br />A pair of scissors or a paper cutting knife can be used.<br />If you are used to it, you can tear paper very well with your fingers.<br />For this, your creases have to be very strong and accurate.<br />Once you have finish cutting or tearing the triangle along the center, you will have two two-layered triangles.<br />Step 5<br />Now, take one triangle and open it like a book.<br />Orient it so the point of the triangle is facing away from you, and the horizontal edge is nearest you.<br />You will feel a vertical crease line running along the center of this triangle.<br />As before, cut or tear this triangle along the center crease.<br />Your triangle will now be divided into two single-layered triangles.<br />Step 6<br />Repeat this process with the other two-layered triangle and you should have four triangles ready.<br />Step 7<br />Take another square and prepare four more triangles so that you have eight in total.<br /><br />(b) - Folding the units<br />Before starting Method 1 or 2, you will make one initial fold for all units.<br />So, make 8 units according to the three steps that follow; then choose either Method 1 or 2 below.<br />Step 1<br />Place a triangle on a hard surface with its point facing away from you and the long edge nearest you.<br />Step 2<br />Grasp the right point of the triangle and fold it upwards to meet the top point of the triangle.<br />Make a strong crease and leave folded.<br />Your unit is ready.<br />Step 3<br />Fold 7 more similar units.<br /><br />(c) Method 1<br />Step 1<br />First, turn all eight units so their folded edges are at the top.<br />You should have a four-sided shape. On the left will be a two-layered triangle with a longer, flatter one-layered triangle on the right.<br />Note that each new unit will be added from the right.<br />Step 2<br />To join your first two units:<br />2.1 Hold unit 1 flat on the table while taking unit 2 in your right hand, lifting its flap just a little.<br />2.2 Now, slide unit 2 from the right so it fits over the long, raw edge of unit 1.<br />2.3 Unit 2 will be stopped by the flap of unit 1.<br />Step 3<br />Next, you are going to make a fold that will strengthen the join of the two units.<br />This fold will be performed on unit 1, using unit 2 as a guide.<br />So, to make this fold, lift up the point of the flap of unit 1 on the far left.<br />Once this flap is lifted, you can look at the folds underneath.<br />The triangle on the surface of the model on the right belongs to unit 2 while the larger shape underneath the triangle belongs to unit 1.<br />We would like to take the entire straight bottom edge of unit 1 and fold it away from us to create a long, slender band. <br />We will use the bottom of the triangle of unit 2 as a guide and a stopper for this fold.<br />So, holding the assembly flat on the left, use your right hand to start folding the long bottom edge of unit 1 away from you.<br />Make a strong crease.<br />Make sure that the two units stay in position while doing this fold. If they move, your fold will not be accurate and you might have trouble with assembly as you proceed with more units.<br />Once your fold is complete, you will have the long, skinny band running from left to right in front of you.<br />Note the band has a sharp triangular point on the right. We will use this tiny point or hook in the last step of our assembly.<br />Step 4<br />Return the large flap of unit 1 so it is pointing towards you. You will notice that the point is quite long, stretching past the folded band on the left.<br />Step 5<br />Lastly, find the tiny hook at the far right of your folded band.<br />Fold it over, using a mountain fold away from you.<br />It will fold over and hook around the side of the model.<br />Make a strong crease and leave it as is for the moment.<br />Your first two units have now been joined.<br />Step 6<br />Continue by repeating Steps 1 to 5 above.<br />Each time you will be rotating your wreath slightly to the left and adding a folded unit by sliding it from the right.<br />Once it is slid in place, lift up the flap on the left and make the fold to create the long, skinny band.<br />Then return the flap on the left and fold over the tiny hook twards the back of the wreath.<br />Try to fold the bands as accurately as possible. Things will seem to get crowded as the units start to overlap.<br />Step 7<br />After placing unit 8, bring the large flap of unit 1 so it lies on top of unit 8; then fold the last band of the wreath against the flap of unit 1.<br />Step 8<br />Flip the entire wreath to the other side so you can work on the back.<br />You will notice that the tiny hooks you had folded over previously are now visible on this side of the wreath. <br />Next to each little triangle, you will find a long diagonal line, which will also now form a pocket for each little hook.<br />The tiny points of some hooks may already have slipped into place as you did your assembly.<br />For those that are not tucked in, gently bend them so they slip under the folds just next to them.<br />Press these hooks as far as possible to the right since their points will hold the units of your wreath securely in place.<br />Step 9<br />Flip the model back to its front side.<br />If all went well, you will now have completed the Rapid Wreath.<br /><br />(d) Method 2<br />Step 1<br />First, turn all units so their folded edges are at the top.<br />You should have a four-sided shape. On the left will be a two-layered triangle with a longer, flatter one-layered triangle on the right.<br />Step 2<br />Explanation<br />For this method, you will now use one of your units as a guide to fold the rest.<br />Only once all eight units have been folded, will you do the assembly.<br />Step 3<br />To fold your first unit, do the following:<br />3.1 Place your first unit flat on the table with its closed edge at the top.<br />Notice your unit will have a long, sloping edge on the right.<br />3.2 Take unit 2 and open its flap just slightly; then slide it from the right so it fits over the long, raw, sloping edge of unit 1.<br />3.3 Unit 2 will be stopped by the flap of unit 1.<br />Step 4<br />Next, lift up the point of the flap of unit 1 on the far left.<br />Once this flap is lifted, you can look at the folds underneath.<br />The triangle on the surface of the model on the right belongs to unit 2 while the larger shape underneath the triangle belongs to unit 1.<br />We would like to take the entire straight bottom edge of unit 1 and fold it away from us to create a long, slender band. <br />We will use the bottom of the triangle of unit 2 as a stopper for this fold.<br />So, holding the assembly flat on the left, use your right hand to start folding the long bottom edge of unit 1 away from you.<br />Make a strong crease.<br />Make sure that the two units stay in position while doing this fold. If they move, your fold will not be accurate.<br />Once your fold is complete, you will have the long, skinny band running from left to right in front of you.<br />Note the band has a sharp triangular point on the right. We will use this tiny point or hook in the last step of our assembly.<br />Step 5<br />So, find the tiny hook at the far right of your folded band.<br />Fold it over, using a mountain fold away from you as far as it will go.<br />It will fold over and hook around the side of the model.<br />Make a strong crease and leave it as is for the moment.<br />Step 6<br />Remove unit 2 and set unit 1 under a heavy object to flatten out the folds while you make more units.<br />Step 7<br />Use unit 2 as your guide to fold 6 more similar units.<br />You can measure each unit against the previous one for extra accuracy.<br />Step 8<br />To fold unit 2, place it flat on the table as you did with all the other units.<br />Then take any of your already folded units and slide it over the right edge of unit 2.<br />Fold the edge of unit 2 up and fold its tiny point on the right away from you, exactly as you did before.<br />All eight units are now ready for assembly of the wreath.<br />Step 9<br />To start the assembly, first, turn all units once again so their large triangular flaps are at the top.<br />You should have a four-sided shape. On the left will be a two-layered triangle with a longer, flatter one-layered triangle on the right.<br />Note that each new unit will be added from the right.<br />Step 10<br />To join your first two units:<br />10.1 First make sure unit 1 is placed correctly as mentioned above: <br />the large triangular flap of the unit is at the top left while the raw edge with the sloping side should be on the right.<br />The long, skinny band should be nearest you. Make sure it is folded over away from you.<br />You can unfold the tiny hook at the far right of the band for now.<br />10.2 Hold unit 1 flat on the table while taking unit 2 in your right hand, lifting its flap just a little.<br />10.3 Now, slide unit 2 from the right so it fits over the long, raw edge of unit 1 but on the inside of the horizontal band you have created.<br />10.4 Unit 2 will be stopped by the flap of unit 1.<br />Put in another way, the sloping edge and the bottom band will form a kind of slot for each new unit to slide into<br />Step 11<br />Return the large flap of unit 1 so it is pointing towards you. You will notice that the point is quite long, stretching past the folded band on the left.<br />Step 12<br />Lastly, find the tiny hook at the far right of your folded band.<br />Fold it over, using a mountain fold away from you.<br />It will fold over the side of the model.<br />Make a strong crease and leave it as is for the moment.<br />Your first two units have now been joined.<br />Step 13<br />Continue by repeating Steps 10 to 12 above.<br />Each time you will be rotating your wreath slightly to the left and adding a folded unit by sliding it from the right.<br />Lift up the left flap of each unit slightly as you add your new unit.<br />*Step 14<br />To complete the circular shape, lift the large flap of unit 1 so it will be able to slide into the slot on top of unit 8.<br />Step 15<br />Flip the entire wreath to the other side so you can work on the back.<br />You will notice that the tiny hooks you had folded over previously are now visible on this side of the wreath. <br />Next to each little triangle, you will find a long diagonal line, which will also now form a pocket for each little hook.<br />The tiny points of some hooks may already have slipped into place as you did your assembly.<br />For those that are not tucked in, gently bend them so they slip under the folds just next to them.<br />Press these hooks as far as possible to the right since their points will hold the units of your wreath securely in place.<br />Step 16<br />Flip the model back to its front side.<br />If all went well, you will now have completed the Rapid Wreath.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired people through text-only instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Nishi Sakpal and Lindy van der Merwe, January 2024<br />This text copyright by accessorigami.com 2024</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6HWj9uWW_C2Dk4oflm9cSFnSXwbw8a-16aI57SoJuFqx3SYWekD-1tk6LiDj1h2Xy3D_9au-mnkpX63T9u9jXJe_rIruzltvYcEenJQ8jw0cF2jxgg90TWFC1s4vCaLlDYmMUQUOFk9UCb3CwcLQ9xeGUwBD5yZK5URoAhpRxFklWc0vnwZisbuNWDM/s651/MBMG4%20-%20RAPID%20WREATH%20DESIGNED%20BY%20MADHURA%20GUPTA.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span> </span><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="651" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6HWj9uWW_C2Dk4oflm9cSFnSXwbw8a-16aI57SoJuFqx3SYWekD-1tk6LiDj1h2Xy3D_9au-mnkpX63T9u9jXJe_rIruzltvYcEenJQ8jw0cF2jxgg90TWFC1s4vCaLlDYmMUQUOFk9UCb3CwcLQ9xeGUwBD5yZK5URoAhpRxFklWc0vnwZisbuNWDM/s320/MBMG4%20-%20RAPID%20WREATH%20DESIGNED%20BY%20MADHURA%20GUPTA.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Alt tag: THE RAPID WREATH<br />The image shows the completed Rapid Wreath.<br /><br />MBMG4 - RAPID WREATH DESIGNED BY MADHURA GUPTA (FROM 8 TRIANGLES)<br />Credits and Resources:<br />Designer/Creator: Madhura Gupta<br />Website: https://madhura-gupta.com<br />Instagram: @tinnifolds - https://www.instagram.com/tinnifolds/<br />Text-Only Instructions: Nishi Sakpal, Mumbai, India<br />via http://accessorigami.com<br />With thankful acknowledgement to Madhura Gupta for teaching this model - January 2024<br />Folder: Nishi Sakpal<br />For any questions, comments or suggestions, email accessorigami@gmail.com<br /><br />Description and more information:<br />This is the Rapid Wreath designed by Madhura Gupta.<br />This wreath is folded and assembled by joining 8 units folded from 4 right angle triangles which are obtained from 2 squares folded into diagonals, and then by cutting along the creases.<br />The outline of the model has a fairly round appearance, but is actually in the shape of an octagon. The opening at the center of the wreath is also eight-sided. The surface of the model is beautifully textured, with long, folded bands that crisscross as they are assembled at cymmetrical angles. The back side of the wreath is quite smooth with a kind of wavy pattern, featuring small triangles that seem to point in opposite directions.<br />This wreath won the 2nd place in the category for "Folding Process (Abstract) of the Joisel Awards 2023.<br />This is a beautiful model to display or use as an ornament for any festive occasion.<br /><br />Please note that there are two different ways to choose from for the folding and assembly of this wreath.<br />Method 1 (original) - In this method the folding and assembly is done simultaneously. This is achieved by making just one fold for each module. The rest of the folds are actually part of the assembly.<br />For this technique, you will have to do multiple folds while you are constructing the circular wreath.<br />If you find this method challenging, you can try the second technique.<br />Method 2 (alternative) - This method may be slightly easier. It involves the more traditional way of first folding all the units and then assembling them into the wreath.<br /><br /> For convenience, I will be dividing this tutorial into the following parts.<br />(a) How to make the triangles;<br />(b) - Folding the units;<br />(c) - Method 1;<br />(d) - Method 2.<br /><br />(a) - Making the triangles<br />Step 1<br />Place a square on a hard surface in the diamond orientation with its points on the top, bottom, left and right.<br />Step 2<br />Make a diagonal fold by bringing the bottom point to the top point.<br />Crease well.<br />Now you will have a triangle with two loose points at the top and the folded horizontal edge at the bottom.<br />Step 3<br />Without disturbing the orientation of the triangle, bring the left point to meet the right point and make a strong fold and unfold.<br />You will feel a vertical crease line running along the center of this triangle.<br />Step 4<br />Gently cut/tear the triangle along this vertical crease from bottom to top.<br />You can cut the triangles in whichever way you prefer.<br />A pair of scissors or a paper cutting knife can be used.<br />If you are used to it, you can tear paper very well with your fingers.<br />For this, your creases have to be very strong and accurate.<br />Once you have finish cutting or tearing the triangle along the center, you will have two two-layered triangles.<br />Step 5<br />Now, take one triangle and open it like a book.<br />Orient it so the point of the triangle is facing away from you, and the horizontal edge is nearest you.<br />You will feel a vertical crease line running along the center of this triangle.<br />As before, cut or tear this triangle along the center crease.<br />Your triangle will now be divided into two single-layered triangles.<br />Step 6<br />Repeat this process with the other two-layered triangle and you should have four triangles ready.<br />Step 7<br />Take another square and prepare four more triangles so that you have eight in total.<br /><br />(b) - Folding the units<br />Before starting Method 1 or 2, you will make one initial fold for all units.<br />So, make 8 units according to the three steps that follow; then choose either Method 1 or 2 below.<br />Step 1<br />Place a triangle on a hard surface with its point facing away from you and the long edge nearest you.<br />Step 2<br />Grasp the right point of the triangle and fold it upwards to meet the top point of the triangle.<br />Make a strong crease and leave folded.<br />Your unit is ready.<br />Step 3<br />Fold 7 more similar units.<br /><br />(c) Method 1<br />Step 1<br />First, turn all eight units so their folded edges are at the top.<br />You should have a four-sided shape. On the left will be a two-layered triangle with a longer, flatter one-layered triangle on the right.<br />Note that each new unit will be added from the right.<br />Step 2<br />To join your first two units:<br />2.1 Hold unit 1 flat on the table while taking unit 2 in your right hand, lifting its flap just a little.<br />2.2 Now, slide unit 2 from the right so it fits over the long, raw edge of unit 1.<br />2.3 Unit 2 will be stopped by the flap of unit 1.<br />Step 3<br />Next, you are going to make a fold that will strengthen the join of the two units.<br />This fold will be performed on unit 1, using unit 2 as a guide.<br />So, to make this fold, lift up the point of the flap of unit 1 on the far left.<br />Once this flap is lifted, you can look at the folds underneath.<br />The triangle on the surface of the model on the right belongs to unit 2 while the larger shape underneath the triangle belongs to unit 1.<br />We would like to take the entire straight bottom edge of unit 1 and fold it away from us to create a long, slender band. <br />We will use the bottom of the triangle of unit 2 as a guide and a stopper for this fold.<br />So, holding the assembly flat on the left, use your right hand to start folding the long bottom edge of unit 1 away from you.<br />Make a strong crease.<br />Make sure that the two units stay in position while doing this fold. If they move, your fold will not be accurate and you might have trouble with assembly as you proceed with more units.<br />Once your fold is complete, you will have the long, skinny band running from left to right in front of you.<br />Note the band has a sharp triangular point on the right. We will use this tiny point or hook in the last step of our assembly.<br />Step 4<br />Return the large flap of unit 1 so it is pointing towards you. You will notice that the point is quite long, stretching past the folded band on the left.<br />Step 5<br />Lastly, find the tiny hook at the far right of your folded band.<br />Fold it over, using a mountain fold away from you.<br />It will fold over and hook around the side of the model.<br />Make a strong crease and leave it as is for the moment.<br />Your first two units have now been joined.<br />Step 6<br />Continue by repeating Steps 1 to 5 above.<br />Each time you will be rotating your wreath slightly to the left and adding a folded unit by sliding it from the right.<br />Once it is slid in place, lift up the flap on the left and make the fold to create the long, skinny band.<br />Then return the flap on the left and fold over the tiny hook twards the back of the wreath.<br />Try to fold the bands as accurately as possible. Things will seem to get crowded as the units start to overlap.<br />Step 7<br />After placing unit 8, bring the large flap of unit 1 so it lies on top of unit 8; then fold the last band of the wreath against the flap of unit 1.<br />Step 8<br />Flip the entire wreath to the other side so you can work on the back.<br />You will notice that the tiny hooks you had folded over previously are now visible on this side of the wreath. <br />Next to each little triangle, you will find a long diagonal line, which will also now form a pocket for each little hook.<br />The tiny points of some hooks may already have slipped into place as you did your assembly.<br />For those that are not tucked in, gently bend them so they slip under the folds just next to them.<br />Press these hooks as far as possible to the right since their points will hold the units of your wreath securely in place.<br />Step 9<br />Flip the model back to its front side.<br />If all went well, you will now have completed the Rapid Wreath.<br /><br />(d) Method 2<br />Step 1<br />First, turn all units so their folded edges are at the top.<br />You should have a four-sided shape. On the left will be a two-layered triangle with a longer, flatter one-layered triangle on the right.<br />Step 2<br />Explanation<br />For this method, you will now use one of your units as a guide to fold the rest.<br />Only once all eight units have been folded, will you do the assembly.<br />Step 3<br />To fold your first unit, do the following:<br />3.1 Place your first unit flat on the table with its closed edge at the top.<br />Notice your unit will have a long, sloping edge on the right.<br />3.2 Take unit 2 and open its flap just slightly; then slide it from the right so it fits over the long, raw, sloping edge of unit 1.<br />3.3 Unit 2 will be stopped by the flap of unit 1.<br />Step 4<br />Next, lift up the point of the flap of unit 1 on the far left.<br />Once this flap is lifted, you can look at the folds underneath.<br />The triangle on the surface of the model on the right belongs to unit 2 while the larger shape underneath the triangle belongs to unit 1.<br />We would like to take the entire straight bottom edge of unit 1 and fold it away from us to create a long, slender band. <br />We will use the bottom of the triangle of unit 2 as a stopper for this fold.<br />So, holding the assembly flat on the left, use your right hand to start folding the long bottom edge of unit 1 away from you.<br />Make a strong crease.<br />Make sure that the two units stay in position while doing this fold. If they move, your fold will not be accurate.<br />Once your fold is complete, you will have the long, skinny band running from left to right in front of you.<br />Note the band has a sharp triangular point on the right. We will use this tiny point or hook in the last step of our assembly.<br />Step 5<br />So, find the tiny hook at the far right of your folded band.<br />Fold it over, using a mountain fold away from you as far as it will go.<br />It will fold over and hook around the side of the model.<br />Make a strong crease and leave it as is for the moment.<br />Step 6<br />Remove unit 2 and set unit 1 under a heavy object to flatten out the folds while you make more units.<br />Step 7<br />Use unit 2 as your guide to fold 6 more similar units.<br />You can measure each unit against the previous one for extra accuracy.<br />Step 8<br />To fold unit 2, place it flat on the table as you did with all the other units.<br />Then take any of your already folded units and slide it over the right edge of unit 2.<br />Fold the edge of unit 2 up and fold its tiny point on the right away from you, exactly as you did before.<br />All eight units are now ready for assembly of the wreath.<br />Step 9<br />To start the assembly, first, turn all units once again so their large triangular flaps are at the top.<br />You should have a four-sided shape. On the left will be a two-layered triangle with a longer, flatter one-layered triangle on the right.<br />Note that each new unit will be added from the right.<br />Step 10<br />To join your first two units:<br />10.1 First make sure unit 1 is placed correctly as mentioned above: <br />the large triangular flap of the unit is at the top left while the raw edge with the sloping side should be on the right.<br />The long, skinny band should be nearest you. Make sure it is folded over away from you.<br />You can unfold the tiny hook at the far right of the band for now.<br />10.2 Hold unit 1 flat on the table while taking unit 2 in your right hand, lifting its flap just a little.<br />10.3 Now, slide unit 2 from the right so it fits over the long, raw edge of unit 1 but on the inside of the horizontal band you have created.<br />10.4 Unit 2 will be stopped by the flap of unit 1.<br />Put in another way, the sloping edge and the bottom band will form a kind of slot for each new unit to slide into<br />Step 11<br />Return the large flap of unit 1 so it is pointing towards you. You will notice that the point is quite long, stretching past the folded band on the left.<br />Step 12<br />Lastly, find the tiny hook at the far right of your folded band.<br />Fold it over, using a mountain fold away from you.<br />It will fold over the side of the model.<br />Make a strong crease and leave it as is for the moment.<br />Your first two units have now been joined.<br />Step 13<br />Continue by repeating Steps 10 to 12 above.<br />Each time you will be rotating your wreath slightly to the left and adding a folded unit by sliding it from the right.<br />Lift up the left flap of each unit slightly as you add your new unit.<br />*Step 14<br />To complete the circular shape, lift the large flap of unit 1 so it will be able to slide into the slot on top of unit 8.<br />Step 15<br />Flip the entire wreath to the other side so you can work on the back.<br />You will notice that the tiny hooks you had folded over previously are now visible on this side of the wreath. <br />Next to each little triangle, you will find a long diagonal line, which will also now form a pocket for each little hook.<br />The tiny points of some hooks may already have slipped into place as you did your assembly.<br />For those that are not tucked in, gently bend them so they slip under the folds just next to them.<br />Press these hooks as far as possible to the right since their points will hold the units of your wreath securely in place.<br />Step 16<br />Flip the model back to its front side.<br />If all went well, you will now have completed the Rapid Wreath.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired people through text-only instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Nishi Sakpal and Lindy van der Merwe, January 2024<br />This text copyright by accessorigami.com 2024<br /> <p></p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-4896654648557389902024-01-27T06:24:00.000-08:002024-01-31T12:06:03.378-08:00MBMG3 - SEN STAR DESIGNED BY MADHURA GUPTA (FROM 8 TRIANGLES)<p></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV6wxnWXuYcqpFHtZIeBQb3JVCMUN3ffCFUwDZ1AtOSmFwmPnRxsMehTrckEwAYIV-KIoLh8wLEuKACkZwvQ7cgbnMTkYBIUbViRPmbtx5RrpCmoF_tvIDbINHcW5-xGICxXbmM_FTIWa4dslV757ePrRTWWNK3McLpFJwt2X2F_DkwrCdgsipciu9wCs/s1600/MBMG3%20-%20SEN%20STAR%20DESIGNED%20BY%20MADHURA%20GUPTA.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><img alt="The Sen Star" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgV6wxnWXuYcqpFHtZIeBQb3JVCMUN3ffCFUwDZ1AtOSmFwmPnRxsMehTrckEwAYIV-KIoLh8wLEuKACkZwvQ7cgbnMTkYBIUbViRPmbtx5RrpCmoF_tvIDbINHcW5-xGICxXbmM_FTIWa4dslV757ePrRTWWNK3McLpFJwt2X2F_DkwrCdgsipciu9wCs/s320/MBMG3%20-%20SEN%20STAR%20DESIGNED%20BY%20MADHURA%20GUPTA.jpg" width="180" /></a> </p><p>The image shows the completed Sen Star.</p><p>It is folded from yellow paper and presented on a dark background. <br /><span> </span><br />Credits and Resources:<br />Designer/Creator: Madhura Gupta<br />Website: <a href="https://madhura-gupta.com" target="_blank">madhura-gupta.com</a><br /></p><p>Instagram: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/tinnifolds/" target="_blank">@tinnifolds</a><br />Text-Only Instructions: Nishi Sakpal, Mumbai, India</p><p>With thankful acknowledgement to Madhura Gupta for teaching this model - January 2024<br />Folder: Nishi Sakpal<br />For any questions, comments or suggestions, email accessorigami@gmail.com<br /><br />Description and more information:<br />This is the Sen Star designed by Madhura Gupta.<br />This Star is folded and assembled by joining 8 units folded from 4 right angle triangles which are obtained from 2 squares folded into diagonals, and then by cutting along the creases.<br />The star has eight points, each being divided in half by a vertical crease. The front of the star has a prominent swirling motif since the arms seem as if they have been placed on top of one another. At the center of this star, there is a fairly small, 3D flower-like structure, once again exhibiting the swirling pattern of the large star.<br />The back of the star is smooth.<br />This is a beautiful model to display or use as an ornament for any festive occasion.<br /> <br /> For convenience, I will be dividing this tutorial into three parts.<br />Part 1 - How to make the triangles;<br />Part 2 - Folding the units; and<br /> Part 3 - Assembling the star.<br /><br />Part 1 - Making the triangles<br />Step 1<br />Place a square on a hard surface in the diamond orientation with its points on the top, bottom, left and right.<br />Step 2<br />Make a diagonal fold by bringing the bottom point to the top point.<br />Crease well.<br />Now you will have a triangle with two loose points at the top and the folded horizontal edge at the bottom.<br />Step 3<br />Without disturbing the orientation of the triangle, bring the left point to meet the right point and make a strong fold and unfold.<br />You will feel a vertical crease line running along the center of this triangle.<br />Step 4<br />Gently cut/tear the triangle along this vertical crease from bottom to top.<br />You can cut the triangles in whichever way you prefer.<br />A pair of scissors or a paper cutting knife can be used.<br />If you are used to it, you can tear paper very well with your fingers.<br />For this, your creases have to be very strong and accurate.<br />Once you have finish cutting or tearing the triangle along the center, you will have two two-layered triangles.<br />Step 5<br />Now, take one triangle and open it like a book.<br />Orient it so the point of the triangle is facing away from you, and the horizontal edge is nearest you.<br />You will feel a vertical crease line running along the center of this triangle.<br />As before, cut or tear this triangle along the center crease.<br />Your triangle will now be divided into two single-layered triangles.<br />Step 6<br />Repeat this process with the other two-layered triangle and you should have four triangles ready.<br />Step 7<br />Take another square and prepare four more triangles so that you have eight in total.<br /><br />Part 2 - Folding the units<br />Step 1<br />Place a triangle on a hard surface with its point facing away from you and the long edge nearest you.<br />Step 2<br />Fold the triangle in half vertically by folding the right bottom point over to meet the left bottom point.<br />Crease well and leave folded.<br />Step 3<br />Fold the left edge, the top layer only, to the right and downwards, to meet the folded right edge.<br />The left point will fold towards you, past the bottom edge of the triangle, creating a very long, skinny shape.<br /> The right side of the unit will now have three layers.<br /> Step 4<br /> Keeping the long, skinny shape folded, flip it over to the right.<br />The surface of the model will now be smooth, except for a vertical crease line and a small triangular tail peaking out on the bottom right.<br /> Step 5<br /> Repeat Step 3 with the remaining left point of the model, also folding it downwards and to the right along the center crease of the figure.<br /> Crease well and leave folded.<br /> You will have a kite-shaped unit, with two two-layered long triangles at the top and two single-layered tails nearest you.<br /> Step 6<br />We are now going to work with the single-layered tail on the right.<br />Start at the very bottom point of the tail and fold it in half towards the left. You are aiming with this fold not only to fold the tail in half, but also to bring the right corner of the figure straight over to the left.<br />The result after this fold should be a kind of "curved" pocket or hook on the bottom right of the unit.<br />The single-layered tail on the right is now folded in half to form an even skinnier point, made of two layers.<br />If you start at the bottom and move along the right side of the shape, you will find a diagonal fold. This is the top edge of the hook, which we will use in the assembly that follows.<br />If you continue to move upwards, you will find a fairly small triangle making up the right side of the unit.<br />The left side will be one, smooth, long, two-layered triangle.<br />Step 7<br />Flip the unit over from left to right.<br />On this side, we are going to work with the two tails at the bottom only.<br />We will call the small tail on the left, the skinny tail and the large one on the right, the large tail.<br />Step 8<br />Start with the large tail on the right and fold it straight up as far as it will go. It will be stopped by the fold above it.<br />Press it flat and leave it folded.<br />Step 9<br />Gently do the same with the skinny tail on the left, making sure to fold it so it is in line with the bottom edge that you have already created on the right.<br />If you feel carefully, there should be a small space on the left and right of the skinny tail once it has been folded upwards.<br />You are aiming here to make the entire bottom edge of the figure as straight as possible. <br />Leave the skinny tail folded.<br />Your unit is ready.<br />Step 10<br />Fold 7 more similar units.<br /><br />Part 3 - Assembling the star<br />Notes:<br />1 For the assembly, turn all units so their long points are facing away from you and so the two tails we formed earlier are facing the table.<br />2 Notice the following two areas on the surface of your units.<br />2.1 On the bottom right, there will be a two-layered lopsided flap, which we will call the hook.<br />2.2 Running vertically along the entire unit, you will find a slit or pocket that can be accessed from the right.<br />We will call this the long pocket.<br />3 During the assembly, units will always be added from the right.<br />Step 1<br />Place your first unit with its point facing away from you, hook on the right.<br />Step 2<br />Place unit 2 in exactly the same position, just to the right of unit 1.<br />Step 3<br />Slide unit 2 to the left, at a 45 degree angle so it disappears inside the long pocket of unit 1.<br />The angle will occur naturally <br />Make sure you slide it in as far as it will go.<br />Step 4<br />We are now going to lock the two units together.<br />To do this, <br />4.1 Feel on the right bottom corner of the unit that is facing the ceiling.<br />You should notice the hook and just behind it, on the back of the unit, a skinny tail.<br />Gently grab the paper near the hook and lift it and bend it just a little bit to the left, so the hook and the skinny tail is out of your way.<br />Hold the unit bent for the moment, using your left hand.<br />4.2 With your right hand, you want to find two structures: the large tail, that is hidden deeper within the folds of the paper, behind the top unit and just to the right of the large tail, you will encounter another hook.<br />Lift this hook up just slightly and make sure it covers the large tail that will be just above or next to it.<br />Your first two units are now joined.<br />Step 5<br />Rotate the model to the left, so that the unit that is facing the ceiling is positioned with its long pocket vertically in front of you.<br />Step 6<br />Follow Steps 3 to 5 above to insert the next 6 units until you have joined all eight units.<br />Step 7<br /> To join unit 8 to unit 1, first make sure that the left point of unit 1 is on top of the hook of unit 8.<br />Step 8<br />Slide the point of unit 1 so it is just inside the long pocket of unit 8.<br />Step 9<br />Now, feel behind the star for the single-layered large tail of unit 1 and the hook of unit 8. <br />Slide the tail under the hook exactly as you have been doing for all the previous units.<br />Step 10<br />Lastly, if needed, slide the point of unit 1 all the way into unit 8.<br />Result: Your units are now all joined together.<br />Note that there may be some small movement of the arms of your star.<br />It is important to check the star for cymmetry at this point.<br />All the arms should be spaced evenly. If some of the arms are close together, gently move them apart until the spaces between the points of the star are all even. <br />Be careful not to dislodge the units in the process.<br />To check and countthe the arms of your star, use both hands and start to count from the two points furthest away from you.<br />Put in another way, starting together at the point furthest away from you, your left hand will move along the left side of the circle and your right hand along the right side of the circle, carefully counting and checking the spaces between the units, until you find that you have arrived at the two points nearest you.<br />Step 11<br />Flip the model over so you can work on the front side now.<br />Step 12<br />We are going to work with the very small, sharp points or spikes that you will notice at the very center of the star.<br />We would like to gently lift these long spikes up from the folding surface to make a beautiful 3D flower.<br />You will notice that the spikes are lieing flat and are hooked into each other in a swirling pattern.<br />To lift them, take one of the points furthest away from you, lift it towards you and slightly bend it to the side.<br />You want to "unhook" it, by pulling it from underneath the adjacent spike that is holding it down.<br />Step 13<br />Unhook all eight long spikes. Feel free to keep the model still or turn it in a way so you can unhook all the spikes.<br />Check between the folds of the star for spikes that may be hiding there.<br />Let the spikes just stand straight up until you have freed all eight of them.<br />Step 14<br />Lastly, gently bring all the end points of the spikes together so they stand straight up.<br />Then take a finger and, approaching from above, insert it into the very center of the flower, pressing down slightly. You want to press all the little spikes so they stand away from each other, at a similar angle of 45 degrees in relation to the folding surface.<br />If all went well, you will now have a beautiful eight-pointed star with a 3D flower at its very center.<br />The back of the star will be smooth.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired people through text-only instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Nishi Sakpal and Lindy van der Merwe, January 2024<br />This text copyright by accessorigami.com 2024<br /></p><p></p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-85732400912340448962024-01-22T10:21:00.000-08:002024-01-22T10:23:15.817-08:00MBFF008 - ORIGAMI - FOUR-PETAL FLOWER USING THE BIRD BASE (FROM A SQUARE)<p>Text-Only Instructions<br />Credits and Resources:<br />Text Instructions - Tina Pildain, Realico, Argentina<br />Designer/Creator: Unknown/Traditional<br />Paper to be used: Square, any size; use large paper to practice with at first.<br />Fairly thin or speciality origami paper is recommended for this model.<br />Folding level: Easy/Intermediate<br />Steps: 23<br />Description:<br />This beautiful, four-petal flower is created by first folding the Preliminary or Square Base leading to the Bird Base, after which the stem and then the petals are shaped using simple cymmetrical folds. Finally, the petals are curled outwards and downwards to create a realistic 3D flower.<br />The petals have a soft, delicate appearance and make a beautiful display if folded from colored or patterned origami paper.<br />Remarks:<br />Fold this flower as a decoration for any occasion.<br />Flowers can be made up as garlands or presented in vases.<br />They make beautiful last-minute gifts. Fold one flower or a whole bunch in different colors for someone special.<br />Summary explanation:<br />The folding of this flower is divided into 6 parts:<br />Part 1 (Steps 1 to 8) creates the Square or Preliminary Base as a starting point for this flower.<br />Part 2 (Steps 9 to 15) will describe how to make 2 petal folds to complete the Bird Base.<br />Part 3 (Steps 16 to 18) will involve preparing the model for the next steps.<br />Part 4 (Steps 19 and 20) will comprise folding the stem or lower part of the flower.<br />Part 5 (Steps 21 and 22) will describe the opening of the petals.<br />Part 6 (Step 23) describes the final shaping of the petals.<br />Try to focus on one part of the folding sequence at a time. This will make things easier to follow and understand.<br /><br />Part 1 - The Square or Preliminary Base<br />If you are using two-sided paper, make sure that the side you want for the outside of the flower is facing down before you start to fold.<br />NOTE: This model starts from the Bird Base, which could also be described as the Preliminary or Square Base, followed by 2 petal folds. If you are able to achieve this without instructions, fold the Square Base and then go to Step 9, or fold the Bird Base, then go to Step 16.<br />Step 1 <br />Place a square down so that it forms a diamond shape.<br />Step 2<br />Bring the left point over to meet the right point. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 3 <br />Bring the top point down to meet the bottom point. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 4 <br />Turn the square over and position it so that its edges are facing up and down, left and right.<br />Step 5 <br />Bring the left edge over to meet the right edge. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 6 <br />Bring the top edge down to meet the bottom edge. Crease and leave folded.<br />Step 7<br />Grasp the left and right points of the resulting rectangle, pick the model up from your folding surface and push inward. The model should collapse along the pre-existing folds.<br />The result will be a square or diamond-shaped model, with four flaps one each to the left and right, front and back.<br />Step 8<br />Fold the front flap to the left and fold the back flap to the right so that your model will lie flat. The model will have one open end.<br /><br />Part 2 - Making 2 petal folds<br />Step 9<br />Position the model so that the open end is pointing toward you. <br />Step 10<br />Bring the lower left edge of the model's top layer over to meet the vertical center crease. Leave folded.<br />Repeat with the lower right edge. <br />Step 11<br />Fold the top point down as far as it will go, so the triangular shape at the top of the diamond will cover the already-folded flaps beneath.<br /> Make a strong horizontal crease along the top edge of the model.<br /> Step 12<br />Unfold the top point and both the left and right triangular flaps.<br />Step 13<br />Pull the bottom point of the model (top layer only) up toward the top point. The top layer should collapse along the existing crease lines as you move upward and you should be able to take the bottom point up an over to lay flat on the work surface.<br />The result will be a long, skinny diamond shape sitting on top of the diamond-shaped bottom layer.<br />Step 14<br />Turn the model over from left to right.<br />Step 15<br />Repeat Steps 10 to 13 on the other side of the figure.<br />The result will be a long, skinny diamond shape that will now be cymmetrical and multi-layered.<br /><br />Part 3 - Preparing for the next steps.<br />Step 16<br />Bring the top point of the model, the top layer only, down to meet the bottom point.<br />Leave folded.<br />Step 17<br />Flip the model over from left to right and repeat the previous step on this side as well.<br />The result will be a diamond with a short upper closed point and 4 longer overlapping lower flaps, one flap at the front, one flap at the back and two more next to each other at the center of the model.<br />Step 18<br />Now, we will rotate the figure so that the closed end is pointing towards us and the open ends are facing away from us.<br /><br />Part 4 - Forming the stem:<br />Step 19<br />Bring the bottom right edge (the top layer only) to the vertical center line.<br />Repeat with the bottom left edge to form two adjacent acute triangles.<br />Step 20<br />Flip the model over, as if turning the page of a book and repeat step 19 on the other side.<br />Now we have the still unopened flower, which at the moment has the shape of an elongated diamond divided into two parts:<br />The upper part, which will soon be the petals of our flower is a large diamond with a smooth surface;<br />The lower part or the stem, nearest us, is made up of two adjacent, elongated triangles.<br /> <br />Part 5 - Opening the flower:<br />Step 21<br />Raise the figure with the closed end facing the floor and the open ends facing the ceiling.<br />Step 22<br />Insert a finger into the flower through the small hole between the top four points.<br />Open the stem into an inverted pyramid shape, making sure no petals are folded across the vertical center crease.<br />Our flower is taking shape!<br /><br />Part 6 - Shaping the petals:<br />Step 23<br />Gently roll all 4 petals down and out for a nice finish. This can be done with your fingers or with the help of a pencil.<br />Our flower is finished!<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Tina Pildain and Lindy van der Merwe, June 2023</p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-73071670185785111832024-01-20T05:07:00.000-08:002024-01-20T05:11:46.117-08:00MBFF002 - MODULAR ORIGAMI - PYRAMID OR TETRAHEDRON BOX (FROM 2 SQUARES)<p>Text-Only Instructions - Tina Pildain, Realico, Argentina<br />Copyright 2024 by Tina Pildain and Lindy van der Merwe<br />Designer/Creator: Unknown/Traditional<br />For any questions, comments or suggestions, email accessorigami@gmail.com<br />Paper to be used: 2 squares of the same size.<br />Difficulty: Easy.<br />The modules are very simple and the insertion is very intuitive.<br />Description:<br />It is a tetrahedron or triangular pyramid, which means it has 4 triangular faces that are all the same size.<br />The final piece is completely closed, except for a slot that can be carefully opened to fit small objects into its hollow interior.<br />To keep this slot open you have to hold it, so when you release it you cannot see the inside of the box, useful for hiding a surprise gift inside.<br />*Clarification:<br />Unlike many other modular pieces that have several exactly the same modules, this box has two slightly different modules that we will call module 1 and module 2.<br />I recommend reading the steps and the final description of each one carefully when folding, to avoid confusion.<br />Shall we start?<br /><br />(A) Creation of module 1:<br />First we must make a kite base.<br />If you know how to do this without instructions, you can skip directly to the figure description that comes after step 4.<br />The beginning of this description is marked by 3 asterisks.<br />Step 1:<br />Place the first square on our work surface in the diamond orientation or with the 4 points facing up and down, left and right.<br />When the box is complete, only the side of the paper that we left face down in this step will be visible.<br />Step 2:<br />ring the left point towards the right point, forming a triangle.<br />Crease and unfold.<br />Now, our rhombus will be divided into 2 large triangles by a central line that goes from the top point to the bottom point.<br />Step 3:<br />Bring the lower left edge of the figure towards the center line. We will generate an acute triangle that is located at the bottom left of the rhombus.<br />Step 4:<br />Repeat Step 3 with the bottom right edge, so that the newly folded edges are now touching the vertical center line.<br />***The result is the Kite Base, which could be divided into two parts:<br />Sometimes I like to compare it to an ice cream cone, where the cone is made up of the two sharp triangles generated in steps 3 and 4, which have a total of two layers of paper, and the ice cream scoop is the smaller, wider triangle remaining, that has only one layer of paper.<br />For the next step, we will orient the figure with the sharp tip of the cone towards us and the ice cream scoop facing away from us.<br />Step 5:<br />Our ice cream ball is separated from the cone by a straight horizontal line that runs from left to right across the width of the Kite Base.<br />We are going to take the scoop of ice cream towards the cone, folding exactly along the separation line that I just described.<br />The result will be a triangle that retains the shape of the cone but without its ice cream.<br />In other words, it is an elongated triangle with its sharpest point facing us, while the shorter flat side,formed by the last fold, is facing away from us.<br />Step 6<br />There is a vertical line that divides the figure in half.<br />It is formed by the central slot. Even where the ice cream I described in step 5 covers the slot, the first diagonal fold we made in step 2 still marks this center line.<br />Using this as a reference point, we'll bring the bottom sharp point of the triangle to the exact center of the top edge.<br />As a result, we will have a trapezoid with its shortest side being the last fold we made.<br />On top of this four-sided shape, is the triangle that we just created and that we will use as a reference for the next two steps.<br />Step 7:<br />The triangle mentioned above is formed by the following lines:<br />*The last fold made, which forms the bottom edge of the triangle.<br />*A fold that goes from the center of the upper edge to the right bottom corner.<br />*A fold identical to the previous one that goes from the center of the upper edge to the left bottom corner.<br />This step consists of bringing the top right tip of the trapezoid downwards and towards the left.<br />The fold made has to exactly follow the right edge of the triangle I just described.<br />Crease and unfold.<br />Step 8:<br />Repeat this last step, bringing the top left tip of the trapezoid downwards and towards the right, this time following the left edge of the central triangle.<br />Crease and unfold.<br />Step 9:<br />Module 1 is finished.<br />Now we can present it in the form of a pyramid, which will show us the final size of the box.<br />The base of the pyramid will be the central triangle, now flat on the table.<br />Around the base, you will find its 3 triangular walls or fins.<br />The only thing left is to raise these walls so that the points of these triangles will touch each other at the top of the pyramid.<br />I know it's not a solid figure yet, but it helps us understand the size and shape of the final product.<br /><br />(B) Creation of module 2:<br />Step 1:<br />Follow Steps 1 to 5 described for module 1, so that we have an elongated triangle with its sharp point facing us.<br />From here on, there will be slight changes that will make module 2 look different.<br />Step 2:<br />Flip the paper from left to right as if we were turning the page of a book.<br />The now-visible face of the figure will be smooth, except for the center crease line we created in Step 2 in Section A above.<br />Step 3:<br />Using the center crease as a reference, bring the sharp point to the center of the top edge.<br />We will obtain a trapezoid as in module 1, with the difference being that the central fold is now covered by a small triangle divided in half by a slot.<br />Step 4:<br />Following the left and right edges of this triangle, we will take the two upper points of the trapezoid towards its opposite edges as we also did for module 1.<br />Before unfolding, we can feel that, on the surface of each of the newly created triangles, there is a pocket with its opening towards us.<br />Step 5:<br />Finally we will present the module as we have done before.<br />If we lift our second pyramid from the work surface and touch its base, we will notice that it has an elongated kite-shaped flap made of a single layer of paper, that will also act as a pocket for the insert.<br /> <br />(C) Before starting the insertion:<br />I recommend starting to assemble the figure on our work surface, as it is much easier than doing it in the air.<br />To quickly differentiate module 1 from 2, we will remember that the first is smooth on the outside while the second has pockets on each side.<br />Keeping module 1 ready, we will let it open slightly to be able to insert a finger inside the pyramid.<br />When touching the base, we will notice that the same kite-shaped pocket that we have under the base of module 2 is seen, this time on the inside of module 1.<br /><br />(D) Assembly:<br />Step 1:<br />Face the two modules as follows:<br />We are going to take the kite-shaped pockets as a reference point.<br /> Their openings, which are at the shortest tip of the kites, should be pointing towards each other.<br />In this way, if we keep the two modules in a pyramid shape, the walls that were previously the sharp tips of our ice cream cones will also face each other.<br />Module 2 will face with its opening to the left and module 1 with its opening to the right. <br />Step 2:<br />Unfold the two fins that are facing each other, so that they are flat.<br />Step 3:<br />Insert the left fin of module two into the kite pocket of module 1.<br />To do this, we will slightly lift this fin and gently guide it towards the pocket so that it slides completely inside it.<br />Now the two modules are lightly joined by this first locking point that is flat on the table.<br />We have two pyramids facing each other with a missing wall, separated from each other by a valley fold.<br />Step 4:<br />Gently hold the two fins of module 1 in an upright position.<br />Step 5:<br />Using the valley fold that separates the two pyramids as a pivot, lift the free pyramid of module 2 and take it to the left.<br />As a result, the fins of module 2, with their large pockets, will slide so they are almost in between the fins of module 1.<br /> Step 6:<br />Carefully bend the two fins of module 1 to fully insert them into the triangular pockets of module 2.<br />Step 7: <br />Now we only have the kite pocket of module 2, on the left, with its opening pointing diagonally downwards and on the right, the last fin of module 1 that is flat on the table.<br />We just have to lift the fin up towards the left and insert it completely into the pocket.<br />Step 8:<br />Our pyramid box is finished!<br />The slot to insert objects into it is on the left edge, between the front and rear walls.<br />We can open it by gently pulling apart these walls <br />with two fingers, without forcing the paper.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Tina Pildain and Lindy van der Merwe, January 2024<br />This text copyright by accessorigami.com 2024</p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-37516663582879945492023-12-31T10:34:00.000-08:002024-02-08T04:07:30.202-08:00MDL0088 - ORIGAMI - TRADITIONAL WALLET (FROM A SQUARE)<p>Text-Only Instructions<br />Credits and Resources:<br />This is a traditional model.<br />Instructions with pictures can be found at<br /><a href="http://epicorigami.blogspot.com/2016/12/wallet.html" target="_blank">epicorigami.blogspot.com</a><br />and on various sites elsewhere on the Internet with some minor variation on folding methods and sequences.<br />Paper to be used: Square, any size; use large paper to practice with at first.<br />Folding level: Easy/Beginner<br />Steps: 16<br />Description: This is a fairly small, flat, rectangular wallet that is open at its top. It has a similar motif on each side, of two triangular corners at the bottom and a band with slanting sides at the top.<br />If you would like to be able to distinguish the back from the front of the wallet, fold the first side into triangles and then down twice as described in Steps 10 onwards.<br />Then flip the model over. Instead of folding the bottom into triangles, simply fold the entire edge of the model in half and then over on itself.<br />The one side of the wallet will have an edge that slants upwards while the other side will have a straight rectangular band for its top edge.<br />You can then decide which edge you prefer for the front and back of the wallet.<br />If preferred, use a dab of glue to secure the flaps at the top of your wallet.<br />Remarks:<br />Apart from making a very useful wallet, this envelope can be used in scrap books, on top of gifts, for enclosing cards, notes, money, any small, flat object.<br />It can also be used to represent a handbag by attaching paper or fabric ribbon at the top corners to serve as straps.<br />If using two-sided origami paper, lay your paper with the patterned or colored side down before starting to fold.<br />Step 1<br />Place a square piece of paper down on a hard, flat surface with its edges to the left and right, top and bottom.<br />Step 2<br />Fold the top edge down to meet the bottom to form a rectangle. Crease well and leave folded.<br />Step 3<br />Fold the left edge of the rectangle over to meet the right edge. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 4<br />Now, fold the left and right edges to meet at the center line.<br />Crease and unfold so you have three vertical creases now.<br />Step 5<br />Make sure your two-layered rectangle is placed with the closed edge at the top.<br />Fold the top left and right points down to meet the first vertical crease you encounter in order to make two corner creases.<br />Press well and then unfold again. These folds will help with the next steps.<br />Step 6<br />Now, you will perform a squash fold on both sides of the model.<br />To do this, lift up the left side of the paper so it is pointing towards the ceiling. Gently hold it in this position with one hand while sliding a finger inside the two layers of the paper. Move away from you along the left edge as far as you can go.<br />In the process, the paper will sort of split or move apart and a triangle will form at the top of the paper. <br />Press the triangle and the fold you have created flat.<br />Step 7<br />Do the same squash fold on the right side of the paper.<br />You will be left with a shape that resemble two little houses lieing alongside each other.<br />Step 8<br />Flip the paper over from left to right, like turning the page of a book.<br />Step 9<br />You will have a smooth center area with two sides that are sloping diagonally downwards.<br />Fold the left and right straight edges of the shape to the center line. Crease well and leave folded.<br />Your model will be cymmetrical now.<br />Step 10<br />Fold the left and right bottom corners, which will comprise two layers each, upwards and inwards so they will form two triangles at the bottom of the model.<br />Crease well and leave folded.<br />Step 11<br />Flip your paper over from left to right and repeat Step 10 on the other side so the model is cymmetrical once again.<br />Step 12<br />Rotate the model 180 degrees so the triangular flaps are now facing away from you.<br />Step 13<br />Fold the top triangle in half by bringing the top point to meet the horizontal center crease.<br />Step 14<br />Flip over your paper and repeat on the other side.<br />Step 15<br />Fold the new top edge of the wallet downwards, over on itself and press flat.<br />Step 16<br />Turn the model over and repeat on the other side to complete your very own pretty practical wallet.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, August 2021<br />Revised, December 2023</p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-51826304780740147892023-12-28T23:58:00.000-08:002024-02-26T01:29:53.739-08:00MBFF009 - MODULAR ORIGAMI - GIANT STAR BY MARIA SINAYSKAYA (FROM 8 SQUARES) <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRnySy6pCgJTBUujO2ckb1G-MaGqGDriQD4gl6LqCLP-1I5V0HK0z05pv__0U_-6NbxfFZeA8rSzmyvsrGa-zhnLDcdxg76plLwrG9fsebJ4ebzBEIVCxFvZZ495puTGadJwNNfhgk_wNi5ZiKwDYhryJHFOYfI2kV8JL6xHTIV4QNCGbeMko7FVnUKs/s1080/Giant%20Star.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="The Giant Star" border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRnySy6pCgJTBUujO2ckb1G-MaGqGDriQD4gl6LqCLP-1I5V0HK0z05pv__0U_-6NbxfFZeA8rSzmyvsrGa-zhnLDcdxg76plLwrG9fsebJ4ebzBEIVCxFvZZ495puTGadJwNNfhgk_wNi5ZiKwDYhryJHFOYfI2kV8JL6xHTIV4QNCGbeMko7FVnUKs/s320/Giant%20Star.jpg" width="320" /></a></p><p>The image shows a red star against a white background, with four sheets of solid-colored paper alternating with four sheets of patterned paper.<br /> </p><p>Credits and Resources:<br />Designer/Creator: Maria Sinayskaya<br />Photo provided by Maria Sinayskaya<br /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Instagram: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/mariasinayskaya/?hl=en" target="_blank">@mariaasinaskaya</a> </p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Text-Only Instructions: Copyright Tina Pildain, Realico, Argentina<br />Instructions for this and some wonderful other modulars by Maria Sinayskaya can be found in her book<br />Zen Origami: 20 Modular Forms for Meditation and Calm (2016) Copyright Maria Sinaskaya<br />You can find more information on this title at<span> </span></p><p><span><a href="https://books.google.co.za/books?id=ACkVDAAAQBAJ&dq=origami+%22giant+star%22+Maria+Sinayskaya&output=html_text&source=gbs_navlinks_s " target="_blank">books.google.co.za</a><br /></span></p><p><span></span></p><p>For more of Maria's other models you can visit this<br /><a href="https://www.giladorigami.com/origami-database/Giant+star+Maria%2BSinayskaya" target="_blank">Gilad's Origami Page</a><br />For any questions, comments or suggestions, email accessorigami@gmail.com<br /><br />(A)<br />Description and more information on modular origami:<br />*Remember that, in case of making modular figures like this, all the sheets have to have the same size to later be able to fit them together.<br />Before starting ... what is modular origami?<br />These are figures made up of several modules, which may be the same or different.<br />Module is the name given to each of the pieces that, when fitted together, will create a figure, in this case a star.<br />Modular origami, like most traditional origami, does not require glue.<br />In general, to fit one module with another, the flaps of one are inserted into the pockets of the other.<br />Don't worry if this explanation is confusing for you.<br />This figure is perfect for getting started in modular origami, since the modules are quite easy to make and as soon as you complete the first one and can examine it, you will understand what I mean when I talk about flaps and pockets.<br /><br />-(B)<br />Description of the figure:<br />It is a flat, 8-pointed star. Each point is a module and can be divided into two parts, one with only one layer of paper and the other made up of three layers of paper.<br />The divide is marked by a mountain fold.<br /> Its modules are fairly easy to fold, orient and insert.<br />The locking mechanism is easy as well and the final joining has no difficulties either.<br />Best of all, this star stays together and is absolutely beautiful.<br />Difficulty: Easy/Intermediate <br /> <br />(C)<br />Paper and making squares:<br />I recommend papers of 7.5 x 7.5 cm or 10 x10 cm.<br />If you do not have these measurements or do not have square paper, you can follow the instructions below. <br /><br />Making a square:<br />1: Place a rectangular piece of paper (a4 can be used to start) with the shortest sides to the left and right, the longest sides to the top and bottom.<br />2: Bring the left edge to the top edge. Crease and leave folded.<br />A triangle of two layers will form.<br />A rectangle will protrude from the double-layered triangle.<br />3: Cut or tear the rectangle that protrudes from the triangle. Try to make the cut or tear as neat as possible.<br />4: Unfold. Now we have a square.<br /><br />In case your square is too big:<br />5: Place the square so that the sides are up and down, and left and right.<br />6: Bring the upper edge towards the lower edge.<br />Crease well and leave folded.<br />It will be a rectangle of two layers of paper with a fold on the top edge.<br />7: Bring the right edge to the left edge.<br />There will be a square formed by four layers of paper, with a fold on the right edge and two on the top edge.<br />Unfold and cut or tear along the last fold made.<br />8: Unfold one of the resulting squares so that there is a rectangle with a fold that divides it into two squares.<br />Cut or tear along the crease.<br />9: Repeat this step with the other rectangle.<br />Now you will have 4 smaller squares!<br /><br />Using A4 sheets, you only have to follow these steps on two sheets to have the 8 squares for your star.<br />They must all be the same size.<br /><br />(D)<br />Module folding:<br />Step 1<br />Place a square of paper on a flat surface in the shape of a diamond.<br />This means that the tips should face up, down, left, and right.<br />Step 2<br />Bring the bottom tip to the top tip. Crease well and leave folded.<br />It will form a triangle with one long folded side nearest you and two shorter sides ending in a point.<br />This triangle has two layers of paper.<br />Step 3<br />Bring the right side of the top layer to the bottom edge. This will also move the top corner of the triangle.<br />The figure we obtain is a triangle that in turn can be divided into three other triangles:<br />*The upper triangle, which is made up of the top edge and part of the left edge and has only one layer of paper.<br />*The bottom left triangle, which is made up of part of the bottom fold and a small part of the left edge and has two layers of paper.<br />*The lower right triangle, which is made up of the bottom fold, the fold made in the last step, and a line on the left that creates the last layer of paper we folded.<br />This one has 3 layers of paper. The two that also form the lower left triangle and the last folded layer in step 3.<br />The point of intersection between the left line just mentioned and the upper line of this triangle is important for the following steps.<br />Step 4<br />Turn the paper from right to left, as if we were turning the page of a book.<br />The triangle now visible is smooth and without folds.<br />Step 5<br />Bring the lower right corner of the triangle to the left side. For this, it is recommended to use the intersection point mentioned in the previous step as a guide and start from this point in a straight line to the left.<br />The newly folded triangle has to reach the left edge but not exceed it.<br />Crease and leave folded.<br />The figure we obtain can be divided into 4 triangles:<br />*The lower left triangle is formed by the lower crease and part of the left edge.<br />*The lower right triangle is very small and has only one layer of paper. It was formed by lifting the lower right corner in step 5. It is formed by the current lower right corner.<br />*The upper triangle, formed by the upper corner, which has only one layer of paper and we will fold in step 6 (last step).<br />*The triangle in the middle part of the figure: It is the corner just folded in step 5. It is made up of the last fold made, a lower fold and an opening at the top that we will call a pocket. This can be separated from the rest of the figure, except of course for the right fold, which joins it. It has two layers of paper and in the pocket we will introduce a second module.<br />The pocket has an opening that can be accessed from the top or a point farthest away from you.<br />Step 6<br />Fold the right edge of the upper triangle so that it just touches the upper edge of the triangle in the middle part of the figure (see description of step 5).<br />Crease well and unfold.<br />By folding and unfolding this last crease, you are aiming to create a small corner flap that will be used to lock your modular units together.<br /><br />(E)<br />Arrangement and Description of the module and how it should be placed:<br />We must take two modules, which must be turned to the right at an angle of 90 degrees from their initial position and placed one to the right of the other. In this way, we will have the following:<br />If we look at the figure by its outline, it has four sides:<br />*The underside is straight and short.<br />*The left side is straight and much longer.<br />*The upper right side runs diagonally from top left to bottom right.<br />*The lower right side is shorter and runs diagonally to the left.<br />If we touch the figure from above, we will find that it is divided into 4 triangles, which have now changed position with respect to the description in step 5, so I will describe them again:<br />*The upper triangle is formed by THE fold that forms part of the left side and part of the upper right side, up to the point of the triangle in the middle part of the figure.<br />This triangle is the largest and will be one of the star points.<br />*The lower right triangle is formed by the lower right side and part of the upper right side, up to the point of the triangle in the middle part of the figure.<br />It has only one layer of paper. It is divided in two by the fold made in step 6.<br />The part that protrudes the most from the figure is a small triangle that we will call the flap.<br />*The lower left triangle has a single layer of paper. It is made up of the small part on the left side that does not have any folds and the entire bottom side.<br />*The triangle in the middle of the figure is the only one that is almost independent, only joined to it by a fold that separates the lower left triangle from the rest of the figure.<br />As we said before, this triangle has a pocket in which we will insert the second module.<br /><br />(F)<br />Assembly:<br />Now let's assemble the modules!<br />To avoid being redundant, I'll call the module on the left module A and the module on the right module B.<br />Step 1<br />Focusing on module A, open the triangle pocket in the middle part of the figure by inserting a finger inside it, to locate it and have it ready for the next step.<br />Step 2<br />Tuck the lower left corner of module B into the now open pocket of module A. When I say lower left corner I mean both the lower left triangle and a small part of the triangle in the middle of the figure.<br />To do this, you have to move module B slightly diagonally to the right until it fits inside the pocket of module A.<br /></p><p>There will come a time when it stops and you won't be able to move it anymore. If you raise your hand to the top, you will see that the two star points have already been formed.<br />Also make sure that the two modules meet perfectly at the point nearest you when doing the insertion. <br /></p><p>It could be said that the figure obtained is a square that lacks a triangle at the top, made up of a rectangle at the bottom and two triangles at the top.<br />Step 3<br />Carefully turn the figure, now made up of two modules, from right to left. If you examine the module that is now on the left, you will see that it can be divided into two triangles ... ... <br />Don't worry I won't describe them in detail this time. <br />I will only tell you that one of them is a large pocket partially covered by the small flap of the other module.<br />Now, the last step of the assembly!<br />Step 4<br />Open this big pocket with one of your fingers and, using the existing fold, insert the small flap into the pocket.<br />After releasing this pocket so that the figure flattens again, you can continue to assemble the other modules in the same way.<br />Step 5<br />Each time you insert a new module, follow the steps outlined above, turning your star to the left so that the relevant pocket faces sideways.<br />This will make it easier to insert the new module from the right.<br />Continue adding all of the remaining modules except the last or eighth module.<br />Step 6<br />Some tips for assembly:<br />Make sure that when you insert the module into the pocket, it goes in all the way and that the corners fit perfectly into each other.<br />You can gently insert a finger to check the fit before pressing the paper flat.<br />When turning the model over, always do it by flipping over the right-most module to the left.<br />You will then easily find the small flap you have to fold on the lefthand side of the model.<br />The large pocket is the first fold you will encounter from the left edge of the model.<br />The small flap will be fixed using a mountain fold.<br />Once you have folded over the small flap, recrease it with a strong crease and press everything flat.<br />Then flip the entire model back again from left to right to continue with the next module.<br />Step 7<br />Once you have only the last module left, insert it in exactly the same way, sliding it in from the right.<br />Then gently pull the first module closer and insert it into the 8th module, closing the circular pattern.<br />Step 8<br />Turn the model over for the last time and fold over the small flap with a mountain fold.<br />Step 9<br />Take this opportunity to check each point of the star. Make sure that all the small flaps are, indeed, tucked in securely to lock the modules in place.<br />Step 10<br />Now, carefully turn the star over for the last time and a beautiful creation will be revealed.<br />Take time to investigate and appreciate the cymmetry and beauty of this star.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Tina Pildain and Lindy van der Merwe, June 2023<br />With thankful acknowledgement to Maria Sinayskaya - December 2023</p><p>This text copyright 2023 by The Accessible Origami Project. <br /></p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-44333882935342864912023-12-19T02:25:00.000-08:002024-01-31T12:06:57.090-08:00MBMG2 - MODULAR ORIGAMI - CELESTE STAR DESIGNED BY MADHURA GUPTA (FROM 4 TRIANGLES) <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHqybCQruYPv2AR1F-5_Q0WC0oCsIn43igdxmwZV2NeHfG-lF4rBFDcrjn19cAVaFN2h-L8U3auuK9KLdXOJUQmPgsSnhpIsR7iy_zGMZdFTEll8Q_72IuTwyrIwNGI8kBUqw0svUDB5l7QQfe1pelCiTL9ohyphenhyphenNW_4WqLpyocRMjr7-b1VUt-PWH_6g9g/s1600/mbff008%20-%20CELESTE%20STAR.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="The Celeste Star" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHqybCQruYPv2AR1F-5_Q0WC0oCsIn43igdxmwZV2NeHfG-lF4rBFDcrjn19cAVaFN2h-L8U3auuK9KLdXOJUQmPgsSnhpIsR7iy_zGMZdFTEll8Q_72IuTwyrIwNGI8kBUqw0svUDB5l7QQfe1pelCiTL9ohyphenhyphenNW_4WqLpyocRMjr7-b1VUt-PWH_6g9g/s320/mbff008%20-%20CELESTE%20STAR.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>The image shows the completed Celeste Star.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">It is folded from yellow paper and presented on a colorful background. <br /></div></div><br />Credits and Resources:<br />Designer/Creator: Madhura Gupta<br />Website: <a href="https://madhura-gupta.com" target="_blank">madhura-gupta.com</a><br />Instagram: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/tinnifolds/" target="_blank">@tinnifolds</a><br />Text-Only Instructions: Nishi Sakpal, Mumbai, India<br />With thankful acknowledgement to Madhura Gupta for teaching this model - December 2023<br />Folder: Nishi Sakpal<br />For any questions, comments or suggestions, email accessorigami@gmail.com<br /><br />Description and more information:<br />This is the Celeste Star designed by Madhura Gupta.<br />This Star is folded and assembled by joining 4 units folded from 4 right angle triangles which are obtained from A square folded into diagonals, and then by cutting along the creases.<br />The star has four long, slender arms with a crease line extending from the center to the point of each arm of the star.<br />At the center of the star there is another tiny star that also has four points.<br />This model is cymmetrical, so the back and front looks similar.<br /> For convenience, I will be dividing this tutorial into three parts.<br />Part 1 - How to make the triangles;<br />Part 2 - Folding the units; and<br /> Part 3 - Assembling the star.<br /><br />Part 1 - Making the triangles<br />Step 1<br />Place a square on a hard surface in the diamond orientation with its points on the top, bottom, left and right.<br />Step 2<br />Make a diagonal fold by bringing the bottom point to the top point.<br />Crease well.<br />Now you will have a triangle with two loose points at the top and the folded horizontal edge at the bottom.<br />Step 3<br />Without disturbing the orientation of the triangle, bring the left point to meet the right point and make a strong fold and unfold.<br />You will feel a vertical crease line running along the center of this triangle.<br />Step 4<br />Gently cut/tear the triangle along this vertical crease from bottom to top.<br />You can cut the triangles in whichever way you prefer.<br />A pair of scissors or a paper cutting knife can be used.<br />If you are used to it, you can tear paper very well with your fingers.<br />For this, your creases have to be very strong and accurate.<br />Once you have finish cutting or tearing the triangle along the center, you will have two two-layered triangles.<br />Step 5<br />Now, take one triangle and open it like a book.<br />Orient it so the point of the triangle is facing away from you, and the horizontal edge is nearest you.<br />You will feel a vertical crease line running along the center of this triangle.<br />As before, cut or tear this triangle along the center crease.<br />Your triangle will now be divided into two single-layered triangles.<br />Step 6<br />Repeat this process with the other two-layered triangle and you should have your four triangles ready.<br /><br />Part 2 - Folding the units<br />Step 1<br />Place a triangle on a hard surface with its point facing away from you and the long edge nearest you.<br />Step 2<br />Fold the triangle in half vertically by folding the left bottom point over to meet the right bottom point.<br />Leave folded.<br />Step 3<br />Fold the right point, the top layer only, downwards and to the left to meet the folded left edge.<br />The right point will fold towards you, past the bottom edge of the triangle, turning it into a very long, skinny shape.<br /> Step 4<br /> Keeping the long, skinny shape folded, flip it over to the left.<br /> The top part of the model will now have a smooth surface, with a small triangular tail peaking out on the bottom left.<br /> Step 5<br /> Repeat Step 3 with the remaining right point of the model, also folding it downwards and to the left along the center crease of the figure.<br /> Crease well and leave folded.<br /> Step 6<br /> Now, flip the folded skinny shape on the left back, so it covers the similar fold beneath it.<br />The unit will be cymmetrical and multi-layered with a straight edge on the left.<br />The top right side of the triangle will be a folded edge, while nearest you, there will be two loose, single-layered points or tails.<br />We will be working with these tails in the next steps.<br />We will be making similar folds as we did above, but now folding only the tails.<br />Step 7<br />Fold the right edge, the top layer of the tail only, downwards and to the left to meet the folded left edge.<br />Step 8<br />Keeping the tail folded, flip it over to the left.<br />Step 9<br /> Repeat Step 7 with the remaining right edge of the tail, also folding it downwards and to the left.<br /> Step 10<br />Now, flip the tail on the left back so it covers the similar fold beneath it.<br />Your shape will once again be cymmetrical.<br />Step 11<br />Open the unit like a book and you will see that you have two skinny tails facing you and a long point facing away from you.<br />Step 12<br />Pick up and hold the unit in your hand in such a way that the point is facing the table and the two skinny tails are facing the ceiling.<br />Without disturbing this orientation, fold the right tail towards you as far as it goes and fold the left tail away from you in the same way.<br />The folds will be stopped by the straight, top edge of the paper, so use this edge as a guide for your creases.<br />You will see that both these tails fold almost one quarter down in opposite directions.<br />You will get a smooth, straight edge facing the ceiling now.<br />Your unit is ready.<br />Step 13<br />Fold 3 more similar units.<br /><br />Part 3 - Assembling the star<br />Notes:<br />1 The back and front of your units are cymmetrical, so you do not have to worry about this for the assembly of this star.<br />2 When doing the assembly, try to keep your units flat on the table. Only once the last unit has been joined to the first, will the model be secure enough to be picked up.<br />Step 1<br />Place your first unit with its point facing away from you.<br />Nearest you, on the left of the unit, there will be a tiny flap, which you can press flat against the surface of the star and ignore for now.<br />You will feel that there is a pocket on the bottom right corner of the unit.<br />Starting at the point furthest away from you, slide your finger along the right side of the unit until you are stopped by a slanted edge. <br />If you lift this edge slightly, you will be able to slide your finger into the pocket.<br />Notice that the underside of the unit has a similar pocket and flap.<br />Step 2<br />Now, place another unit at a 90 degree angle on top of unit 1.<br />Find the pocket on the underside of unit 2 and hook it into the pocket of unit one.<br />You will find that both these pockets fit into each other properly. <br />Step 3<br />Rotate the model 90 degrees to the left so unit 2 now has its point vacing away from you.<br />Step 4<br />Take unit three and insert its pocket into the pocket of unit 2.<br />Step 5<br />Rotate the star once more and place unit four on top of unit three and repeat the same process.<br />The four units are now loosely joined.<br />Step 6<br />To lock the star, lift up unit one and insert its bottom pocket into the pocket of unit four, which is already facing the ceiling.<br />You may need some patience to lock the first and the fourth unit together but once it is locked, it will not fall apart.<br />Step 7<br />You will feel 4 little flaps which are lying around the center point of the star.<br />These are the four flaps which we have folded in the last step while folding our units.<br />Gently unfold these four flaps to see a second little star lying perfectly in the center of your mane star.<br />Step 8<br />Flip the star over and unfold the 4 remaining flaps in the same way.<br />Your beautiful star is ready!<br />Making origami accessible to all through text-only instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />This text - copyright by accessorigami.com - 2024Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-83850245066473643132023-12-15T11:14:00.000-08:002023-12-29T10:14:20.501-08:00MOD9 - MODULAR ORIGAMI - FOUR-SQUARE STAR<p>Text-Only Instructions<br />Credits and Resources:<br />Designer: Lindy van der Merwe</p><p>This model was folded by me without any external reference or resource.<br />If you are aware of any other source where this model or similar might be listed, please let me know so I can reference it under this heading.<br />Paper to be used: 4 squares - any kind of paper should work for this model.<br />Folding level: Easy/Beginner<br />-------------------------Steps: 15<br /> ------------------------Description: This is a flat, two-dimensional star, similar to the ninja star or Shuriken.<br />However, where the traditional Ninnja Star is most often folded from 2 rectangles, this model requires 4 squares.<br />The star has a surface made up of four fairly large squares, with four small, sharp points protruding from each corner.<br />You can use 1 or 2 colors or even 4 different colors for this star. If using 2 colors, make sure you alternate them, so that they will show on opposite sides of the star.<br />-<br />Remarks:<br />Stars are always beautiful to fold for many different occasions, including religious holidays like Christmas, celebrations like the 4th of July in the U.S. or just for fun throughout the year.<br />Use colors like silver, gold, red, green or blue and tie with matching ribbon to hang the stars from a tree or around the house.<br />Use on cards or as decorations on gifts.<br />Make as a project for children and decorate with glitter, sequence or any other embellishments if preferred.<br />These stars are classic folds that children can play with. See whose stars can travel the farthest and fastest.<br />Be careful though. The points are sharp and the stars should never be thrown at animals or people.<br />It is best to keep these stars away from very young children.<br />If you are using two-sided paper, make sure that the side you want for the outside of the star is facing down before you start to fold.<br />Note that, in the instructions below, the correct positioning of the model during the folding process is very important, so take extra care to orient your paper correctly for each step.<br />PHASE 1: CREATING THE UNITS<br />You will be folding 4 similar units to form your star.<br />Step 1<br />Place a square down with its edges left and right, top and bottom.<br />Step 2<br />Fold the top edge to meet the bottom edge. Crease and leave folded to form a rectangle.<br />Step 3<br />Fold the bottom edge, the top layer only, up to meet the top edge. Crease and leave folded.<br />Step 4<br />Flip the unit over from left to right so you have a rectangle with a smooth surface.<br />Step 5<br />Fold the bottom left and right corners diagonally upwards and inwards so they meet each other along the center of the rectangle.<br />The result will be a triangle, made up of 2 smaller triangles, that will be pointing towards you.<br />Step 6<br />Rotate the figure so it is pointing away from you.<br />Step 7<br />Now, bring the left corner of the model over to the right. Crease and leave folded.<br />This completes the basic folded unit.<br />Phase 2: Fold more similar units<br />Repeat steps 1 to 7 3 more times so you have 4 similarly shaped units to work with.<br />Step 8<br />Explanation:<br />First look at one of your folded units.<br />* Each unit is made up of a multi-layered rectangle at the bottom, with a fairly sharp, triangular point that seems to originate from inside the rectangle.<br />* The triangular point is situated more towards the left, closed side of the rectangle.<br />* Also notice that the rectangle is closed on the left and open on the right.<br />* The rectangle has a straight edge with many layers or loose flaps on the right. <br />* These layers are also pockets which you will be making use of for the assembly.<br />* All units are placed and inserted in a similar way for the steps that follow.<br />Phase 3: Assembling your model<br /> Step 9<br />Take your first unit and place it down with the sharp point facing away from you and the open side of the rectangle on the right.<br />Step 10<br />Take the second unit and first holding it in a similar way than you did with unit 1, rotate it 90 degrees so that the point is facing right, with the closed side of the rectangle at the top.<br />Step 11<br />Now slide unit 2 toward the left so the rectangle fits over the right side of unit 1.<br />There are many layers involved, but you will be able to separate the flaps of unit 1 into a front and back part.<br />Likewise, unit 2 will have two single-layered pockets, one on the back and one on the front.<br />So, when you fit unit 2 over the rectangle of unit 1, make sure that each side slides into the corresponding pocket of the next unit.<br />Make sure you slide unit 2 in all the way, as far as it will go.<br />Step 12<br />Once you have the first 2 units connected, turn them 90 degrees to the left so unit 2 will now be ready for unit 3 to be placed over it.<br /> Step 13<br />After unit 3 is inserted, repeat turning and inserting unit 4 in the same way.<br />Remember that the rectangle of unit 4 will fit over unit 3.<br />Step 14<br />You might now find that unit 4 seems to lie on top of unit 1 and that it won't be easy to complete the assembly.<br />You will have to very gently loosen the units of the model so that you can make space for inserting unit 4 into unit 1 in order to complete the assembly.<br />Be patient and take your time. You should be able to wedge in the last flap without totally dislodging the rest of the model.<br /> Step 15<br /> Once all 4 units are connected, press them together and towards the center. Make sure all the points face in the same direction and that the sides of the star are straight.<br /> You can also check both sides of the central square. Each side will be divided by 4 foldlines, which should all face in the same direction.<br /> Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, September 2023<br />Revised, December 2023</p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-24527742955165947652023-12-13T00:37:00.000-08:002024-02-23T21:12:33.256-08:00MOD8 - MODULAR ORIGAMI - JAPANESE BROCADE BY MINAKO ISHIBASHI (FROM 6 squares)<p>Text-Only Instructions<br />Designer/Creator: Minako Ishibashi <br /><span><a href="https://www.giladorigami.com/origami-database-designer/Ishibashi+Minako" target="_blank">Minako Ishibashi</a> </span><span> </span><br />Various sites show how to fold this unusual model. See, for instance,<br /><a href="https://www.instructables.com/Geometric-Origami-Japanese-Brocade/How to Fold a Japanese Brocade" target="_blank">instructables.com</a><br />Steps: 32<br />For any questions, comments or suggestions, email accessorigami@gmail.com<br />Paper to be used: 6 squares of similar size; use large paper to practice with at first.<br />Speciality origami paper or colored paper of a medium thickness is recommended.<br />Note squares will also make nice, small models, but only use these when you are comfortable with the folding and assembly of the model.<br /> You can use alternating colors if preferred, make your cube from only one color or go to the other extreme and create a multi-colored cube, as long as the squares you choose are all the same size.<br />Folding level: Beginner/Intermediate<br />Description and more information:<br />Here is how this model is described on a site called Eclectic Imagination:<br />https://eclecticimagination.com/?p=1293#:~:text=The%20Japanese%20brocade%20is%20very,was%20designed%20by%20Minako%20Ishibashi.&text=You%20will%20need%20six%20squares%20of%20paper.<br />"The Japanese brocade is very elegant, halfway between a cube and a sphere. These curves are unusual for modular origami and make the Japanese brocade rather special. This model was designed by Minako Ishibashi. You will need six squares of paper."<br /> So, six units are first combined to make a cube, which is then tweaked to form a ball or sphere.<br />The finished model is a closed, three-dimensional shape with 6 faces, 12 edges and 8 vertices or corners, which makes it a cube or a regular hexahedron. <br />All 6 faces are congruent (similar) and shaped as squares.<br />The faces of the cube have flaps on their surfaces which can be coaxed into delicate bands which run across the cube in a cymmetrical fashion, creating one of the most beautiful modular origami pieces that you will find.<br />The folding and assembly of this model has some simularity to that of the Sonobe cube, so if you are struggling with this model, perhaps fold the Sonobe cube first.<br />Very small cubes can be used as jewelry components.<br />These models also look beautiful displayed in a large, flat bowl or see-through jar or base, or use them as party favors or hanging decorations.<br />To use as a box, small objects can be added before the last module is inserted.<br />Instructions:<br />PHASE 1: CREATING THE UNITS<br />You will be folding 6 similar units to form your Japanese brocade.<br />It is recommended that you fold all 6 pieces before attempting Phase 3, which will explain how to fit the pieces together to form the finished model.<br />If using two-sided origami paper, lay your paper with the patterned or colored side down before starting to fold.<br />Step 1<br />Place a square down with its edges to the left and right, top and bottom.<br />Step 2<br />Fold the top edge down to meet the bottom edge to form a horizontal center crease line.<br />Crease and unfold.<br />Step 3<br />Now fold the top and bottom edges in to meet the horizontal center crease line.<br />Step 4<br />Fold the top left corner, all the layers, diagonally down to the right as far as it will go. It will line up with the bottom edge of the paper and form a triangle on the left side of the unit.<br />Step 5<br />Do the same with the bottom right corner in the opposite direction, folding it diagonally upwards to meet the top edge of the model.<br />You will now have a long, skinny diamond shape, or to be more accurate, a parallelogram.<br />Step 6<br />Unfold the paper so you have a square again. Notice that there are now various horizontal and diagonal crease lines across your model.<br />Step 7<br />Fold all 4 small corners inwards so they meet the first horizontal crease you encounter. Put in another way, fold the small corners diagonally so they meet the top and bottom quarter horizontal lines of the square.<br />Two opposite corners will already have diagonal valley creases. Simply turn these creases into mountain folds.<br /> Step 8<br /> Leaving the small corners folded, fold the top and bottom edges of the figure upwards and downwards to also meet the quarter fold line of the square.<br /> Two skinny bands will form at the top and bottom edges of the square and will cover the corners folded in the previous steps.<br />Step 9<br />Notice that your model will have a crease line running from the top right corner to the middle of the bottom edge.<br />Make a fold along this crease, bringing the bottom right corner to meet the quarter line from the top.)<br />Step 10<br />As you do this step, a small vertical band will form near the center of the model. This band will stand up at a 90 degree angle from your folding surface.<br />Press the entire band flat, to the right. <br />As you do this you will notice that another thin band has also formed along the left bottom edge of the model.<br />Step 11<br />Rotate your model 180 degrees and repeat the previous 2 steps.<br />Another thin band will form just next to the one you created in Step 10 above.<br />Step 12<br />Lift the right corner of the model a little and you will see that there is a horizontal band running underneath it.<br />Push the flap underneath this band.<br />Step 13<br />Make sure you now have the outline of a parallellogram. On its surface you will have a cymmetrical formation that has been formed, made up of a band running along the bottom left and another along the top right of the figure.<br />At the center there will be 2 vertical bands next to each other.<br />Step 14<br />Flip the paper over so it has a smooth surface.<br />Position it so you have the central square with its bottom edge horizontally or lined up with the table.<br />You will have a triangle on the left of the square, sloping downwards and another on the right, sloping upwards.<br />Step 15<br />Fold the left corner straight over to the right and the right corner straight over to the left so the bases of the triangles meet each other diagonally across the square.<br />The folded triangles will thus meet each other perfectly and cover the central square.<br />Make sure that all 4 edges of your square are straight and really creased well at this point. Press extra hard since firm creases will make the assembly of the model much easier.<br />Step 16<br />Gently unfold the last step and set aside.<br />PHASE 2: FOLD MORE SIMILAR UNITS<br />Repeat steps 1 to 16 5 more times so you have 6 similarly shaped units to work with.<br />Make sure you follow the instructions for all the squares precisely since all units should be alike in order for the modular pieces to fit. In particular, the pockets and slits of all modules need to face in the same direction on each piece. If some of the units are folded with the slits and pockets facing in the opposite direction, the points of the other units will not fit.<br />The parallelograms should also be folded in the same way, corresponding to the description in Steps 9 to 11 above.<br />PHASE 3: ASSEMBLING YOUR MODEL<br />Step 17<br />Explanation:<br />First look at your folded unit. It has a square with two flaps that seem to point in opposite directions. The square itself has a smooth surface on one side, but various pockets and bands have been created on the back side. These pockets are where you will be inserting the flaps of the units of the cube.<br />The smooth sides of the squares will thus be hidden on the inside of the model while the points will fit into the pockets on the outside of the cube.<br />Don't be afraid to use a fingernail to open the pockets. You should be able to figure out where the pockets are and how to slide the flaps of the new units into them once you start assembling the model.<br />Step 18<br />Start by placing one unit down with its flaps at the top and bottom. The square part of the model will lie flat while the flaps will point towards the ceiling.<br />The smooth side of the central square will be facing up, so make sure the side with the pockets is facing the table.<br />Step 19<br />Now take two more units, place them on the left and right of the first one. The two on either side should have their flaps out to the right and left, also with the side with the pockets facing the table.<br />Step 20<br />From hereon, you might have to pick up the model in order to assemble it. Don't be afraid to turn it during the assembly. You can lightly hold it in your hand. The more units you add, the better the cube will hold itself together.<br />So, lift the first unit from the table and insert the point of the left unit, into the nearest pocket you will find on the back of the first unit.<br /> Slide it in all the way. The point will disappear and the first two units will be loosely joined by their sides.<br />Step 21<br />Then, take the right unit and insert its point in a similar way at the back of the first unit.<br />After you have connected the first 3 units you will have a loose structure with many points just hanging around.<br />Step 22<br />Place the next two units above and below the first unit with their flaps pointing left and right.<br />You will notice that there are still two points open at the top and bottom of unit 1.<br />Step 23<br />Insert the top flap from unit 1 into the pocket at the back of unit 4.<br />Step 24<br />Similarly, insert the bottom flap of unit 1 into the pocket at the back of unit 5.<br />You now have 5 units connected loosely, still with lots of loose flaps, which will be dealt with next when the sides of the cube are completed.<br />Step 25<br />Before tucking in the sides, gently pull all 4 loose flaps to the outside of the cube so you will be able to get hold of them. There should be no loose points or flaps when the cube is completed.<br />Step 26<br />Start on the left side and tuck in the flaps into the pockets that are nearest them. Always feel for the opening of the pocket near the edge of the units. These are the correct pockets. Avoid sliding the flaps into the folds at the center of each unit.<br />There will be two flaps to tuck in on the left side.<br />Step 27<br />Now do the same folds on the right side of the cube.<br />Once done, you will have a five-sided shape with two flaps still standing up and unconnected.<br />Step 28<br />Complete the assembly by adding the last square by inserting its points into the sides of the cube in the same way you did before.<br />Step 29<br />Lastly, take the two flaps left unattached and tuck them into their slots that you will find on the last, top unit of the cube.<br />Step 30<br />Gently press the corners and sides into a final cymmetrical cube shape.<br />PHASE 4: TURNING THE CUBE INTO A SPHERE<br />Step 31<br />Explanation<br />On each face of your Japanese brocade model you will notice small folds. On closer inspection, you will find that the surface of the cube consists of thin bands that are interwoven and run diagonally across each face of the cube.<br />Step 32<br />To turn your cube into a sphere, start on one of the six faces and take those interwoven bands between your thumb and forefinger and pinch them together. You are aiming to lift the bands away from the folding surface of the cube.<br />Be careful not to pull at the corners of the cube, but simply lift the loose flaps on each face of the model.<br />Make sure you have pinched all four flaps together on each face of the cube.<br />If preferred, gently separate the flaps a little to make your Japanese brocade look round and puffy so that it will turn into a beautiful sphere!<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, July 2023<br /> </p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-1410864457575488452023-12-12T03:03:00.000-08:002024-01-24T23:18:13.254-08:00MDL0087 - ORIGAMI - TRADITIONAL CANOE (FROM A SQUARE OR RECTANGLE)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a al="A vibrant green origami boat on a bed of shells." href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXs4U7v9nf9imV_2hyphenhyphenY0Ngo2976QEfVMMTonwjXC3EC8Vi68pF5eb4MuwTRpaiTW6RcWJGXPfwnIupZXDqGIXcoBXOSRI1vEJNu-KaVklFa6UIRJBboNiQtMTDAMm-CZ3TchZmPj2iZRc_hTAf0xdbUkthpom1_JnPvMr1yTwnHZlNIGW6gcmC173rV0U/s2147/MDL0087%20-%20ORIGAMI%20-%20TRADITIONAL%20CANOE%20(FROM%20A%20SQUARE%20OR%20RECTANGLE).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="The Traditional Canoe" border="0" canoe="" data-original-height="2147" data-original-width="2044" green="" height="320" of="" on="" origami="" shells.="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXs4U7v9nf9imV_2hyphenhyphenY0Ngo2976QEfVMMTonwjXC3EC8Vi68pF5eb4MuwTRpaiTW6RcWJGXPfwnIupZXDqGIXcoBXOSRI1vEJNu-KaVklFa6UIRJBboNiQtMTDAMm-CZ3TchZmPj2iZRc_hTAf0xdbUkthpom1_JnPvMr1yTwnHZlNIGW6gcmC173rV0U/s320/MDL0087%20-%20ORIGAMI%20-%20TRADITIONAL%20CANOE%20(FROM%20A%20SQUARE%20OR%20RECTANGLE).jpg" width="305" /></a></div><p>The image shows a collection of various seashells in different shapes and sizes. They are predominantly in shades of beige, brown, and white.</p><p></p><p>On top of the shells, there is a bright green paper boat, adding a pop of color to the earthy tones of the shells.</p><p>The boat has crisp folds and sharp edges, contrasting with the organic, smooth, or ridged textures of the shells.</p><p>Description by: Be My AI from Be My Eyes at <a href="https://www.bemyeyes.com" target="_blank">bemyeyes.com</a></p><span><br /></span><p>Text-Only Instructions<br />Credits and Resources:<br />There are, unsurprisingly in origami, many ways to fold a canoe!<br />As it happens, I recently became aware of a talented origami designer and teacher, Laura Kruskal (1923 - 2019). <br />She designed many easy models, primarily from rectangular paper and became famous for her many different origami crown models.<br />Laura presented fun and lively origami classes up until 2018 when she was 95.<br />The link below from OUSA, is a very special recording of her class called "What Can You Do With A Paper Canoe?". <br />Apart from teaching the canoe itself, Laura has devised more than 30 models that has the canoe as their base.You will also hear Laura play the harmonica and sing the "Origami International Anthem" which she wrote in 1995.<br /><a href="https://origamiusa.org/memoriam_laura_kruskal" rel="nofollow">origamiusa.org</a><br />Paper to be used: Square or rectangular, any size; use larger paper to practice with at first.<br />Folding level: Easy/Beginner<br />Steps: 14<br />Description: This is a fairly sturdy, 3D model. The corners are well secured and the model has the beautiful, characteristic shape of a simple canoe.<br />Remarks:<br />This model makes a wonderful project for children and beginners.<br />The bottom, sides and inside of the canoe can be decorated.<br /> For an interesting science experiment, fold canoes from different types of paper, such as aluminum foil, wax paper, newspaper etc. and note which material will last longest when placed on water.<br />Step 1<br />Place a square down with its edges to the left and right, top and bottom.<br />If using rectangular paper, place it down with the short edges at the left and right, or in landscape orientation.<br />Step 2<br />Fold the bottom edge up to meet the top edge to form a two-layered rectangle.<br />Step 3<br />Fold the raw edge at the top, the upper layer only, down so it meets the bottom, folded edge.<br />Crease well and leave folded.<br />Step 4<br />Flip the model over from left to right.<br />Step 5<br />Repeat Step 3 on this side, so that you have a rectangle of four layers.<br />Step 6<br />Rotate the rectangle so that the short edges are at the top and bottom. Make sure the side with the two loose flaps are on the left.<br />Step 7<br />Pick up the upper, single layer of paper on the left and open it towards the right, like you would open a book, so it will lie flat.<br />Step 8<br />Take the top right corner and fold it to the left and down at a 45 degree angle. It should meet the vertical center crease of the rectangle.<br />Crease and leave folded.<br />Step 9<br />Repeat this fold with the bottom right corner so that it also meets the vertical center crease.<br />Step 10<br />Repeat the two previous steps on the left side of the rectangle, leaving a single layer of paper unfolded on the left of the model.<br />The upper layer of your model will now be a six-sided shape, with two triangles at the bottom and two at the top.<br />Step 11<br />Take the folded left edge and flip it over to the right, using the vertical crease that is already there. <br />The corners you have folded will now be hidden within the layers of paper on the right.<br />Step 12<br />Like you did before, fold the top and bottom corners of the rectangle to the right at a 45 degree angle.<br />To help you here, you can lift up the layers on the right, holding them at a 90 degree angle so they will act like a wall you can fold against.<br />Fold the layers flat again on the right once you have folded both the corners on the left.<br />Step 13<br />Repeat Step 11, folding the left edge over to the right, like closing a book.<br />You will end up with a straight edge on the left and a curved edge on the right of a long, skinny rectangle.<br />Step 14<br />All that remains is to turn your long rectangle so the curved edge is at the bottom.<br />Open your canoe by pulling the long, straight edges at the top of the figure apart.<br />Flatten the center of the canoe a little, gently forming the edges into a boat shape.<br />Your canoe is ready!<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, December 2023<br /></p>
Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-62937259326776600062023-11-30T22:30:00.000-08:002024-02-08T04:10:35.881-08:00MDL0086 - ORIGAMI - CRANE (FROM A SQUARE)<p>Text-Only Instructions<br />Credits and Resources:<br />The crane has become perhaps the most well-known symbol in origami today. Much has been written about this model, including its traditional origins and why it has become such a symbol of hope and peace in modern times.<br />You can read more about this at the link below.<br /><span> </span><span> </span><span> <a href="https://blog.nationalgeographic.org/2015/08/28/how-paper-cranes-became-a-symbol-of-healing-in-japan/" target="_blank">National Geographic - How Paper Cranes became a symbol of healing in Japan</a></span><br />For a text-only description of a Flapping Crane by a fellow folder, Lisamaria Martinez, follow this link<br /><span> <a href="https://bayareablindmom.com/2020/05/21/origami-flapping-crane/" target="_blank">origami-flapping-crane</a></span><br />To find diagrams and/or videos for this model, simply search for the words "traditional origami crane".<br />Paper to be used: Square; use any kind of large paper to practice with at first.<br /> However, speciality origami paper is recommended for this very special model.<br />Folding level: Intermediate<br />Steps: 24<br />Description: <br />The origami crane is a three-dimensional figure, folded from the Bird Base. Its body, tail and head is very recognizable. Its wings can either be close to its body or they can be spread out into a flatter shape, folded away from the body.<br />There are also many variations to the crane, including crane cards, crane dishes, crane bookmarks and cranes with different properties like standing cranes, flying cranes etc.<br />Summary Explanation:<br />To help orient yourself, please read this section before starting to fold.<br />The crane is folded by starting off with the Preliminary or Square Base, leading into the Bird Base, which is then turned into the crane.<br />You can learn about the different origami bases at the following link:<br /><span> <a href="https://www.accessorigami.com/p/introduction-to-folds-and-bases-used-in.html" target="_blank">introduction-to-folds-and-bases-used-in-origami</a></span><br />The folding of this model is divided into 3 phases:<br />Phase 1 will explain how to fold the Preliminary or Square Base.<br />Phase 2 will add 2 petal folds to form the Bird Base.<br />Phase 3 will describe how to form the crane itself.<br />NOTE: The Bird Base starts with the Square or Preliminary Base followed by two petal folds If you are able to achieve the Square Base without instructions, fold it, then go to Step 9; if you are able to fold the Bird Base, go to Step 16.<br />Phase 1: The Prelimanary or Square Base<br />Step 1<br />Position a square of paper on your work surface so that its points are facing up and down, left and right or like a diamond.<br />Step 2<br />Bring the left point over to meet the right point. Crease and unfold. <br />Step 3<br />Bring the top point down to meet the bottom point. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 4<br />Turn the paper over and position the square so that its edges are now facing up and down, left and right. <br />Step 5<br />Bring the left edge over to meet the right edge. Crease and unfold. <br />Step 6<br />Bring the top edge down to meet the bottom edge. Crease and leave folded. <br />Step 7<br />Grasp the resulting rectangle at its left and right sides and push inward. The folds you made previously should allow the model to collapse into a diamond shape with one folded flap sticking out towards the front of the model and one sticking out towards the back. <br />Step 8<br />Fold the front flap to the left and fold the back flap to the right so that your model will lie flat.<br />The model will have one open end.<br />Phase 2 - The Bird Base<br />To form the Bird Base, 2 petal folds are added to the Square Base.<br />Step 9<br />Position the model so that the open end is pointing toward you. <br />Step 10<br />Bring the lower left edge of the model's top layer over to meet the vertical center crease. Leave folded.<br />Repeat with the lower right edge. <br />Step 11<br />Fold the top point down as far as it will go, so the triangular shape at the top of the diamond will cover the already-folded flaps beneath.<br /> Make a strong horizontal crease along the top edge of the model.<br /> Step 12<br />Unfold the top point and both the left and right triangular flaps.<br />Step 13<br />Pull the bottom point of the model (top layer only) up toward the top point. The top layer should collapse along the existing crease lines as you move upward and you should be able to take the bottom point up an over to lay flat on the work surface.<br />At the same time, the raw edges of the figure will seem to rise up slightly and move towards each other, meeting at the center of the model.<br />The result will be a long, skinny diamond shape sitting on top of the diamond-shaped bottom layer.<br />Step 14<br />Turn the model over from left to right.<br />Step 15<br />Repeat Steps 10 to 13 on this side of the figure.<br /> Your Bird Base is completed. It will be a long, skinny diamond shape that will now be cymmetrical and multi-layered.<br />Phase 3 - Forming the crane<br />Step 16<br />We will first be narrowing the bottom part of our crane.<br />To do this, hold the Bird Base so the center triangle, that is now hiding at the inside center of the figure is facing away from you.<br />The thin flaps that can move back and forth, or the legs, should be nearest you.<br />Step 17<br />Bring the lower left edge of the model (top layer only) over to meet the vertical center. Crease and leave folded. <br />Repeat with the lower right edge. <br />You should now have an even skinnier diamond with a much more tapered point at the bottom and a top point that's somewhat wider.<br />The bottom section will have a triangular flap to either side of the center line.<br />Step 18<br />Turn the model over from left to right and repeat Step 17 so your model is cymmetrical.<br />Step 19<br />Open up the layers on the left side of the model just a bit.<br />At the same time, take the bottom point of the left 'leg' and fold it all the way up, as far as it will go.<br /> Press the layers flat again to close the left side of the model.<br /> The left leg will basically fold upwards in half and will protrude at the top left of the model and will be enclosed within the layers of the paper.<br /> Repeat on the right side.<br />When finished, your diamond should have lost its bottom point, and should now have 2 small points sticking up out of the top, one on either side.<br />Step 20<br />The model has many layers now. <br />Find the skinny point at the top left of the figure and form the crane's neck and head by pulling it away from the center, so that the tip points left.<br />It is not critical, but try to let the left tip, the neck, lean at around a 45 degree angle. <br />Step 21<br />To form the head/beak, hold the neck with one hand and press down on the end of the head. The paper should open slightly and you should be able to squash the point down at an angle, so it will look like a beak.<br />Check that the head/beak is slightly smaller than the neck of the crane.<br />Step 22<br />Now, as you did with the head on the left, Form the crane's tail by pulling the top right point away from the center, so that the tip points right.<br />You can also fold the tail at around a 45 degree angle or slightly further down.<br />The tail will automatically look longer than the neck since you have folded the head and beak on the left.<br />Step 23<br />Gently pull the model's center flaps down on both sides in an arc as far as they will go to form the wings.<br />You can leave the wings in this somewhat closed position if preferred, or go to the next step to open them.<br />Step 24<br />Grasp one wing in each hand, and gently pull them away from each other to open out the body and allow the crane to stand more easily.<br />Remember that you can vary the way you fold the last steps by changing the angles as mentioned above and by spreading the wings more or less. <br />May you experience the love, hope, joy and peace that each origami crane may bring.<br /> Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />~`~Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, November 2023-</p><p>https://www.accessorigami.com <br /></p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-66733697136156033932023-11-25T11:01:00.000-08:002024-02-08T04:11:42.266-08:00MDL0085 - ORIGAMI - LOVE KNOT LETTERFOLD (FROM A STRIP)<p><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span>Text-Only Instructions -<br />Credits and Resources:<br />This is a traditional model.<br />Instructions with supporting pictures and/or illustrations can be found here at<br /><a href="https://origami.guide/holiday-origami/valentines-origami/origami-love-knot-letterfold/" target="_blank">origami.guide</a><br />Slight adaptations were made so as to make the instructions easier to follow and the model easier to fold without sight.<br />Paper TO BE USED: Any square or rectangle can be used, although a long strip with a ratio of 1 to 8 is best.<br />So, if using copy or similar paper, use accordion folds to divide your paper into eighths and then tear or cut into strips.<br />If you find that your finished knot seems out of proportion, like if the one end is very short compared to the other, you can try to vary the length to width ratio by, e.g. using a longer strip of the same width or you can fold the strip more times so it is narrower. <br />Alternatively, you can use a tape measure to make sure you start off with a strip that is e.g. 1 cm high and 8 cm long.<br />Folding level: Easy/Beginner<br />Steps: 8<br />Description: <br />"This model presents a unique and interesting way to fold a piece of paper into a fairly secure origami creation and is not to be confused with a different model altogether, the Lover's Knot.<br />This method of folding up a letter or note is fairly easy and takes only a few minutes to complete. <br />Being a unique and creative way to send letters, the origami love knot letterfold is a useful and fun fold to memorise.<br />You’ll often see these origami love knots tied to trees in japan at temples and in other situations where a note needs to be secured and tied to something."<br />Remarks:<br />A note can be written on the strip before starting to fold. The message will be hidden on the inside of the fold.<br />The name of the recipient can be written on the arms or ends of the knot.<br />This knot can actually be tied around something, so have fun presenting it to someone special.<br />Fold small love knots in colors as tree or other decorations or tie around tablewear or napkins for a party.<br />You can also use this fold as a decoration for a gift. Place it at any angle you like on top of the gift or tie it around the gift itself.<br />You can even fold 2 or 3 small knots to make a decoration for a card.<br />Please note:<br />For this model it is important to know and remember the meaning of horizontal (left to right) and vertical (top to bottom).<br />So, when folding, keep the strip as straight as possible on the horizontal or vertical axes when following the instructions below.<br />If it will help, you can use any object like a book to help you by using the top and left edge of the book as the vertical and horizontal reference points.<br />If using two-sided origami paper, lay your paper with the patterned or colored side down before starting to fold.<br />Step 1<br />Place your strip on a flat surface with the short edges at the left and right or in landscape mode.<br />Step 2<br />Valley fold the bottom edge to meet the top edge. Crease well along the entire strip. Leave folded.<br />For a narrower strip, repeat this step, or if preferred, fold the top and bottom edges into the center and then fold the strip in half again.<br />Folding in this way will hide the raw edges of the paper and make your knot look nice and neat.<br />Step 3<br />Valley fold the strip in half by bringing the left, short edge over to meet the right edge.<br />Make a light crease to mark the middle of the strip and then unfold.<br />Step 4<br />Now valley fold the left short edge over to the right and diagonally down so the fold comes to rest exactly on the center crease you made in the previous step.<br />The strip will now have one arm pointing straight down while the other arm will still be horizontal, pointing straight to the right.<br />There will be a diagonal edge forming the top left corner of the shape. The horizontal arm will be behind the vertical arm at this point.<br />Step 5<br />Next, lift the model up and holding it in your left hand, use your right hand to fold the horizontal strip on the right away from you and also downwards. This is a mountain fold.<br />You are aiming to bend the right arm of the strip so it folds backwards to also come to rest in a vertical position, just next to the left arm.<br />If you have folded correctly, you will have a triangular point at the top of the model with two separate strips hanging straight down alongside each other. Notice that the triangle at the top has a smooth surface on the left and a smaller triangle part on the right.<br />Your two strips may be the same length at this point or the left one may be slightly longer than the right. As long as the strips are more or less the same length all is fine,.<br />Step 6<br />You will now once again move the lefthand strip that is in a vertical position upwards and to the right so that it comes to rest in a horizontal position.<br />To do this, take the left arm of the model and valley fold it upwards and to the right. The left edge of this arm should meet the bottom edge of the small triangle on the top right of the model.<br />Put in another way, fold over the left arm at an angle to the right, but making sure that the two top triangles are still completely visible.<br />The bottom edge of the 2 triangles is your guide in this case.<br />Once this fold has been made, the top part of the model will look vaguely like a sailboat with the two top triangles being the sails and beneath them there will be a rectangle with its left side slanting sharply from top left to bottom right.<br />The right side of this rectangle has a straight edge.<br />Put in another way, the model will have three main areas if laying flat on a table.<br />(A) A triangle made up of two small triangles at the very top of the shape or furthest away from you;<br />(B) Just beneath the triangle there will be the horizontal arm that is stretching out to the right with a diagonal slant on the left;<br />(C) Lastly, there will be a vertical arm that is basically a long, skinny rectangle.<br />Step 7<br />The last step is perhaps the trickiest, but it will lock the love knot into place and is one of those 'wow' moments in the folding process of some origami models.<br />You will have to lift the model from your folding surface and hold it in your right hand with your fingers placed at the top of the model, at the very center of the top triangle.<br />Hold the top triangle in place while doing this step.<br />Make sure the horizontal arm just below the triangle can move freely. What you will be doing is to use your left hand to grab the right arm near its end and literally swing it to the left so it moves behind the vertical arm of the model.<br />Notice that you are not making any creases in this step, but simply moving the front arm of the model to the back.<br />Put in another way, you will keep the horizontal arm essentially in its position, but tucking it from the front to the back of the model. <br />So, first bring the horizontal arm towards you, then , moving it down and to the left, then behind the vertical arm and lastly up and to the right.<br />This is quite a small movement while holding the top triangles firmly and essentially keeping the vertical arm of the model in place.<br />If all went well, you will end up with a beautiful shape that has two ends pointing down and to the right, with the actual knot connecting them at their center.<br />If you look at the knot itself, the outside will have a kind of square shape while the inside of the knot has formed into three triangles with the two ends of the knot pointing down and right.<br />The end result reminds one a bit of a pinwheel where the creases forming the triangles all face in the same direction, namely to the right, if you move in a clockwise direction.<br />Step 8 (Optional)<br />You can keep the ends of the knot as they are or fold them inwards in half using mountain folds to make them shorter in which case the knot will seem smaller and more compact.<br />Tuck the ends into the knot itself or secure the folded-in ends with a dab of glue if preferred.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, November 2022<br />Revised: October 2023, with thankful acknowledgement to my daughter, Zahn van der Merwe, for assistance with folding this beautiful model<br /><br /> </p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-16832614950742074582023-11-16T21:08:00.000-08:002024-02-08T04:13:00.769-08:00MOD7 - MODULAR ORIGAMI - FLOWER FOR ROSE - DESIGNED BY DARREN SCOTT (FROM 8 SQUARES)<p>Text-only Instructions<br />This beautiful decoration is from the Aveuglami website at aveuglami.fr, the home of The Aveuglami Project.<br />Original text for this model in French, copyright Michel Lucas.<br /><a href="https://www.aveuglami.fr/AveuglamiWeb/fichesNV/nvzfleurose.php?acces=NV&bckgcol=FFFFFF&fsize=12pt&charcol=000000&fweight=plain&retour=nvrub03-tousmod.php#a225" target="_blank">aveuglami.fr</a><br />Folded with the friendly help of Google Translate.<br />Designer/Creator: Darren Scott<br />Diagram available at:<br /><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20060505045549/http://www.robogumby.com/origami/flowerforrose.pdf" target="_blank">web.archive.org flower for rose.pdf</a><br />Steps: 22<br />Description and more information:<br />This modular creation is a flat or two-dimensional decoration. It is created by folding 8 very simple units that start from the Kite Base and then joining them into a single fairly rounded shape. The outline of the model has a somewhat scalloped appearance while the front surface has a pleasing swirling feel to it. The finished model thus resembles a flower-like design with 8 petals that seem to curve outwards from the center point.<br />Although folding this model is not difficult, it requires the folding of many small points on the outer edge of both sides of the decoration, which may require precision and attention to detail.<br />Since the colors will be visible where the small points are tucked in around the outer edge of the model, it is suggested to make this decoration from 1 color, or, at most 2 alternating colors.<br />Don't let this stop you from trying this wonderful model though. As is often the case, your folds will get better with practice.<br />Instructions:<br />Phase 1: Folding the first unit<br />NOTE: The units of this model start from the Kite Base. If you are able to achieve this without instructions, fold the base and then go to Step 6.<br />Step 1<br />If using two-sided origami paper, lay your paper with the patterned or colored side down before starting to fold.<br />Place the square with its points to the left and right, top and bottom or in a diamond formation.<br />Step 2<br />Fold the bottom point up to meet the top point. Crease and leave folded.<br />You will have a 2-layered triangle with a hinged edge along the bottom.<br />Step 3 <br />Fold the right top edge, the top layer only, diagonally down to meet the bottom hinge fold. Crease and leave folded. <br />Step 4 <br />Flip the model over from left to right and repeat the previous step, but now with the left top edge of the triangle.<br />You will now be left with a multi-layered, flat triangular figure that is positioned with its points left and right.<br /> Step 5<br />Open the model by bringing the top point down to the bottom. <br />Your model will now have a smooth surface and its outline will look like a kite shape.<br />Step 6<br />Next, turn over the shape and rotate it so that the 2 folded flaps are nearest you with the single-layered triangle point facing away from you.<br />Step 7<br />Take the single-layered top triangle and fold it down to just cover the 2 folded flaps beneath it.<br />Then unfold it and tuck it in under the 2 folded flaps so that it is hidden within the folds of the unit.<br />The top of the unit will now have a straight edge.<br />Step 8<br />Flip the skinny triangle over from left to right.<br />Step 9<br />Lastly, fold the bottom point nearest you straight up so it comes to rest at the center of the top edge of the shape.<br />Make a strong crease along the bottom of the module and leave folded.<br />This completes the basic folded unit.<br />Phase 2: Fold more similar units<br />Repeat steps 1 to 9 7 more times so you have 8 similarly shaped units to work with.<br />Step 10<br />Explanation:<br />First look at one of your folded units.<br />* The front of the unit is made up of a two-layered triangle that is pointing away from you.<br />* The triangle has a vertical slit down its center, which creates a pocket on the left and right of the slit.<br />* The back of the unit is shaped like a cup with a straight bottom edge that slopes outwards on both sides, ending in a flat top edge that is a little wider than the bottom edge.<br />* You will notice that the back also has a vertical slit down its center and 2 large, almost rectangular loose flaps on either side of the slit.<br />* In the instructions that follow, you will be working on both the front and back of the units.<br />Phase 3: Assembling your model<br />Step 11<br />Place a unit flat on your folding surface so its front triangle is pointing away from you. The back of the unit will be facing the table. It will seem if the triangle is lying on top of the cup shape.<br />Make sure the bottom of the cup shape is horizontal before starting your assembly, so the bottom of the cup will be nearest you and the wider rim will be furthest away from you.<br />Note that all units will be placed in this position for the assembly of the flower.<br />Step 12<br />Now take the second unit and hold it to the right of the first. Slide it to the left into the slit at the center of the first unit.<br />Slide it all the way as far as it will go. It will come to rest at an angle. Make sure it fits right into the bottom left corner of unit 1 and that its left edge is snug against the edge formed by the triangular pocket of unit 1.<br />Step 13<br />Next, slide your finger along the left edge of unit 2 until you find its point furthest away from you. You will notice that this point is sticking out above the edge of the paper.<br />Use a mountain fold to fold the small point of unit 2 away from you, so it folds straight over the edge of the model.<br />Tuck this point into the layers of the model so it is no longer visible on either side of the shape.<br />Make a strong crease to settle the point in place.<br />Step 14<br />Just to the right of the point you just folded in, there will be another point, this time sticking out from the back of the model.<br />Use a valley fold to bring this point towards you, but like you did before, tuck it inside the folds of the paper so it also disappears. Actually you will only tuck this point behind the loose flap at the back.<br />Step 15<br />Flip the units over from left to right.<br />Step 16<br />Find the pointy flap that is lying diagonally near the left edge of the shape and tuck it under the flap just underneath it. So, simply lift the loose rectangular flap and let the triangular point slide in to the inside of the flap.<br />The point will now also be hidden on the inside of the figure.<br />Step 17<br />Flip the model from left to right and repeat Steps 11 to 16 to add a third unit to the right of unit 2.<br />Step 18<br />Continue to add units, each time turning the model anti-clockwise. Make sure that the last unit on the right is in a horizontal position before adding a new unit.<br />This will help you with orientation and make things easier as the units start to fill up the circle which will be forming.<br />Make sure each unit is fitted and locked into place securely before adding the next unit.<br />Step 19<br />As you add units 6, 7 and 8, it may feel as if things are starting to get crowded. Just keep adding units as before, making sure each unit is secured before adding the next.<br />Step 20<br />Once you have added unit 8, tuck in the left edge of unit 1 into its left pocket and fold over the last 2 points at the outer edge like you did before.<br />Step 21<br />Turn the decoration over for a last time and tuck in the last point that you will find at the back. Make sure no other triangular points are visible. Tuck them under the flaps at the back of the model if necessary.<br />Step 22<br />Flip the flower to the front and make sure all units are tucked in securely and that all the small points around the outer edge of the flower is folded over and tucked into the inner layers of the model.<br /> You should have a scalloped edge with no points sticking out. Also check that the center of the model is completely closed. If needed, gently press the units together toward the center of the model.<br />It should hold together now and is ready for use.<br />Making origami accessible to those who are blind or visually impaired.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled: The Accessible Origami Project, August 2023, with thankful acknowledgement to Michel Lucas for his kind assistance in explaining the assembly via email</p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-84397436077129864632023-11-08T06:03:00.003-08:002024-03-05T06:33:16.672-08:00 MDL0083 - ORIGAMI - TRADITIONAL PUZZLE PURSE (FROM A SQUARE)<p>Text-Only Instructions<br />Credits and Resources:<br />This puzzle purse is an extension of MDL0045 - ORIGAMI - FOUR-POINTED PINWHEEL STAR, which you will find in Accessible Origami - Volume 3.<br />In fact, the first 14 steps are exactly the same as those for the pinwheel star, after which the four-pointed star shape is turned into the closed envelope or puzzle purse.<br />Instructions with pictures for folding this model, can be found at<br /><a href="http://www.homemade-gifts-made-easy.com/origami-envelope-2.html" target="_blank">homemade-gifts-made-easy</a><br />Since this volume focuses on traditional models, I have also quoted a few steps from the excellent instructions by Nancy Rosin from her page at<br /><span> </span><span> </span><a href="http://www.victoriantreasury.com/library/2007-01_Puzzle_Purses/" target="_blank">Victorian Treasury</a><br />She explains in detail how the purse was folded traditionally, which is the way represented by the text instructions below, as well as how one could modify your folds to do away with the extraneous creases that are the result of the traditional method of folding this envelope.<br />Paper to be used: Square, any size; use large paper to practice with at first. <br />Thin origami paper that is white or plain on one side is recommended for this project.<br />Folding level: Intermediate<br />Steps: 16<br />Description: This model is a small, flat, closed envelope. The finished puzzle purse is a folded square that is divided into 4 sections that seem to revolve around a central point. It can be opened into a pinwheel shape and then further into a square with a grid of 9 smaller squares.<br />A puzzle purse, folded in the traditional way, is easy to recognize as it will have visible creases used to fold it.<br /> More specifically, a square is folded into thirds horizontally and then vertically, with the resulting small square then folded along its diagonals<br />Once opened, the square will be divided into 9 equally sized squares, each of which has an "X" mark, due to it having been folded along both diagonals. <br /> Once all the folds have been made, the purse is collapsed or folded closed, with the finished purse being one-third of the size of the paper you started off with.<br />Remarks:<br />Puzzle purses may be used to conceal messages. Once the pre-creases have been made, a message may be written in the center square. The model is then closed and secured with the last fold.<br />A number may be written on each flap to indicate the order in which the purse should be opened.<br />This envelope can be used in scrap books, on top of gifts, for enclosing cards, notes, money, any small, flat object.<br />The model is quite secure as long as you do not fill it with things that are heavy or bulky.<br />Alternatively, a note can simply be folded into this model and decorated for a quick children's project or a personal touch.<br />These envelopes can also be used for advent calenders. Secure with a sticker or a dab of glue after they have been filled.<br />If using two-sided origami paper, lay your paper with the white or plane side up before starting to fold.<br />NOTE: This model requires folding your square into thirds. A folding method is described below in Step 2, but if you prefer, you could use a template to help.<br />Try to create a template from cardstock or similar durable paper if you are able to use the method in Step 2, or consider asking someone to help you make a template from the size of squares you most often use.<br />You can then keep this template in your origami kit for use at any time.<br />Step 1<br />Place a square down with its edges to the left and right, top and bottom.<br />Step 2<br />Divide and fold your square into thirds.<br />The easiest method I have found to do this is to pick up your paper and gently fold the sides over to their opposite edges. Adjust your folds on both sides before making small creases right at the edges of the paper to mark where you will fold.<br />Don't worry if this is difficult at first. It will become easier with practice. <br />Unfold all the way again.<br />Using the small marks you have made, fold the top edge of the square down a third of the way and then over once more, like you would a letter going into an envelope.<br />Crease well and unfold so you have a square with two lines across it.<br />Step 3<br />Turn your model 90 degrees and repeat the previous step so that your square is now divided into 9 blocks by two vertical and 2 horizontal valley folds.<br />Step 4<br />Create 2 diagonal folds across your paper by bringing the top left corner to its diagonally opposite corner and creasing, then opening it and repeating the fold with the other corner.<br />You will end up with an X across your paper.<br />Step 5<br />Next, you will be folding your starting square into a square that will be one-ninth of its original size.<br />To do this:<br />Fold the open square closed, first by folding over the left and then the right edges towards the center. Press down so you now have a tall thin piece of triple ply paper.<br />Then fold this long piece closed by bringing the top and bottom edges across each other.<br />You now end up with a small, thick square of paper, 1/9 of the original size of the paper. <br />Step 6<br />Fold corners diagonally toward each other from both directions to make an X crease across this small square.<br />Step 7<br />Flip the small square over and repeat Step 6 on the other side.<br />Step 8<br />Unfold all the way again so you have the square positioned as in Step 1.<br />You will notice that there are now 9 blocks with diagonal creases running through each square.<br />All folds have been created, so you will now move on to the next phase, which can loosely be described as the formation or collapsing of the model into the star shape.<br />Step 9<br />Identify the square at the center of the 3 by 3 grid you have created. This square will stay flat while you will form the 4 points around it.<br />Note that the next steps will explain how to form the Puzzle Purse in an anti-clockwise direction.<br />Once you know how to fold the model and are comfortable with how the folds work, you will likely be able to collapse the envelope in a clockwise direction as well.<br />Step 10<br />Start with the top right corner of the model.<br />Pinch the corner between two fingers while moving from the outer point until you reach the central square. As you do this, the previous folds will cause the top right point to rise up together with the top and right sides of the paper.<br />It will look like a sharp triangular point that is sort of floating in the air. You can bend the end of the triangle gently to the left and then let it just hang there for the moment.<br />Step 11<br />Now repeat the pinch folds and the bending of the points with the three remaining corners in order to form a floppy shape with 4 points hanging around on each corner.<br />Step 12<br />Starting at the top right corner again, gently press the pointed triangle that is standing up so it folds flat to the left.<br />You might have to coax the paper a little here, but the precreases should help a lot. You will know that the first arm has been folded correctly if it folds flat onto the square. The fold will actually start on top of the central square itself and the point will be a two-layered flap with an opening to the left. The first arm of the star should point straight up, away from you and the triangle will slant upwards to the left in relation to the central square.<br />Step 13<br />Next, move to the left side of the central square to form the second arm of the pinwheel star. You might find that the paper is already almost in position or on the other hand, the paper might have folded itself into the wrong position.<br />Looking at the central square only, the fold of the second arm will actually start from underneath the fold of the first arm.<br />So try to hold the first arm in place near its point while creating the second arm, although you might notice the paper shifting near the central square, the first arm should stay in place while you work on the second one.<br />To make the correct fold, gently grab the triangular point on the left of the central square and pull it towards the ceiling. Make sure you have a nice sharp point as you lift the triangle up.<br />Once you have the sharp point between your fingers, gently pull or press it flat, to the left so it will form the second arm of the star.<br />Once again, the arm will be a two-layered triangle with its opening towards you. It will point straight out from the central square to the left and it will slope downwards to the left in relation to the central square.<br />Step 14<br />Repeat the steps with the two remaining arms of the star, first with the bottom point and lastly folding the right point into place.<br />Remember that each new arm you are forming will originate from the central square, but forming underneath the previous arm.<br />You will notice that the precreases have enabled the paper of the central square to overlap and fold into the beautiful rotating pattern of the 4-pointed pinwheel star.<br />If your folds seem not to want to collapse as described above, don't be discouraged. This is an intermediate model, so it might take more than one try to get it right. Once you understand how the folds are created underneath/on top of each other, all radiating from the central square, you will realize that the folds are not difficult in themselves, though the collapsing in an anti-clockwise manner is what makes the model so brilliant and beautiful.<br />As often happens with origami models, this is a beautiful four-pointed star, but with a few more steps, it may be turned into another entirely different, useful model.<br />Step 15<br />Four points of the pinwheel will be sticking out. Each little triangle that sticks out should be folded in toward the center square, using the edge of the square as a guide.<br />Start at the top triangle and move anti-clockwise or to the left, each time folding a triangle on top of the previous one.<br />Step 16<br />Finally, tuck the last triangle into the pocket that was formed by your first fold. <br />The pocket you are looking for will actually be underneath the last triangle, so don't just fold it over, but find the pocket or the slit nearest or underneath the last triangle. You might have to use a nail to open the slit that has been formed and bend the triangle a little in order to tuck it into the pocket securely.<br />Since all the points of the puzzle purse are folded snugly on top of each other, it will now be securely closed.<br />Your very own origami puzzle purse is complete.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, May 2019<br />Revised, September 2023<br /><br /></p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-35802898796870900202023-11-07T05:12:00.001-08:002024-03-05T06:29:46.916-08:00MDL0084 - ORIGAMI - FOUR-POINTED STRETCH STAR (FROM A SQUARE)<p><span> </span><span> </span>Text-Only Instructions<br />Credits and Resources:<br />This model is from the publication "Simple Origami for Cub Scouts and Leaders" by Sakiko Wehrman <br /><a href="http://macscouter.com/cubscouts/PowWow06/ORIGAMI/ORIGAMI.PDF" target="_blank">Simple Origami for Cub Scouts and Leaders</a><br />Paper to be used: Square; use large paper to practice with at first.<br /> Folding level: Intermediate<br />Steps: 21<br />Description:<br />This is a four-pointed star that has a beautiful, delicate, 3D appearance.<br />The front of the star is somewhat rounded while the back shows where the different layers of the paper are coming together.<br />NOTE: This model uses 3 of the well-known origami bases. It starts off with the Blintz Base, then moves on to the Preliminary or Square Base, leading into the Bird Base, which is then turned into the final figure, the Four-Pointed Stretch Star.<br />The instructions for this model are accordingly grouped into sections A, B, C and D.<br />You can learn about the different origami bases at the following link:<br /><a href="https://www.accessorigami.com/p/introduction-to-folds-and-bases-used-in.html" target="_blank">Introduction to Folds and Bases Used in Origami</a><br />Remarks:<br />This model can be used as a tree topper or an ornament on its own or as part of a garland.<br />String and beads can be used to make garlands, stringing the stars so they hang sideways or facing front.<br />Alternatively, you can string or glue 2 models back-to-back for an even more elaborate star. <br /><br />Section A: The Blintz Base<br />Step 1<br />Place a square down with its edges to the left and right, top and bottom.<br />Step 2<br />Fold the left edge over to meet the right edge. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 3<br />Fold the top edge down to meet the bottom edge. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 4<br />Make the blintz fold by using the method you prefer to fold all four corners in to meet at the center of the square.<br />See the link above for ways to do the Blintz Base.<br />When pressed flat, you should end up with a smaller square-shaped model divided into 4 triangles.<br />Make sure that, as far as possible, all outside corners are folded neatly at a 90 degree angle and that the crease lines all lie straight and meet precisely in the center of the square.<br />Be sure to keep your model folded like it is now, before moving on to the next base form.<br /><br />Section B - The Preliminary or Square Base<br />Step 5<br />Rotate your folded square so that it forms a diamond shape, with its points at the left, right, top and bottom.<br />Step 6<br />Bring the left point over to meet the right point. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 7<br />Bring the top point down to meet the bottom point. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 8<br />Turn the square over from left to right and position it so that its edges are facing up and down, left and right.<br />Step 9<br />Bring the left edge over to meet the right edge. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 10<br />Bring the top edge down to meet the bottom edge. Crease and leave folded.<br />Step 11<br />Grasp the left and right points of the resulting rectangle, pick the model up from your folding surface and push inward. The model should collapse along the pre-existing folds.<br />The result will be a square or diamond-shaped model, with four flaps one each to the left and right, front and back.<br />Step 12<br />Fold the front flap to the left and fold the back flap to the right so that your model will lie flat.<br />The model will have one open end, which should be facing you.<br /><br />Section C - The Bird Base<br />To form the Bird Base, 2 petal folds are added to the Square Base.<br />Step 13<br />Bring the lower left edge of the model's top layer over to meet the vertical center crease. Leave folded.<br />Repeat with the lower right edge. <br />Step 14<br />Fold the top point down as far as it will go, so the triangular shape at the top of the diamond will cover the already-folded flaps beneath.<br /> Make a strong horizontal crease along the top edge of the model.<br /> Step 15<br />Unfold the top point and both the left and right triangular flaps.<br />Step 16<br />Pull the bottom point of the model (top layer only) up toward the top point. The top layer should collapse along the existing crease lines as you move upward and you should be able to take the bottom point up an over to lay flat on the work surface.<br />At the same time, the raw edges of the figure will seem to rise up slightly and move towards each other, meeting at the center of the model.<br />The result will be a long, skinny diamond shape sitting on top of the diamond-shaped bottom layer.<br />Step 17<br />Turn the model over from left to right.<br />Step 18<br />Repeat Steps 13 to 17 on this side of the figure.<br /> Your Bird Base unit is completed. It will be a long, skinny diamond shape that will now be cymmetrical and multi-layered.<br /><br />Section D - Forming the Stretch STAR<br />Step 19<br /> Hold the Bird Base so the center triangle, that is now hiding at the inside center of the figure is facing <span> </span><span> </span><span> </span>away from you. The thin flaps that can move back and forth, or the legs, should be nearest you.<br /><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span>Step 20<br />Bring both the top front and back flaps down on each side so that the center triangle that was hidden is now revealed.<br />Step 21<br />Lastly, slightly open the back and front flaps and find the skinny legs that are now hidden on the inside of the model.<br />Holding a flap on each side, gently pull your hands to the left and right in a gentle arc upwards and outwards. <br />As you do this, the front and back flaps will also rise and your star will seem to magically stretch into shape to form a beautiful, slightly 3D four-pointed star.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />~`~Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, November 2023<br /> </p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-60908567835330693522023-10-20T03:04:00.000-07:002024-03-05T06:35:01.498-08:00MDL0082 - ORIGAMI - TUCKED-IN TRADITIONAL TATO (FROM A SQUARE)<p>Text-Only Instructions -<br />Credits and Resources:<br />For an example of this fold including pictures with instructions, visit<br /><a href="http://www.ucandostuff.com/article.aspx?id=1544" target="_blank">ucandostuff.com</a><br />Paper to be used: Square, any size; use large paper to practice with at first. <br />A square made from printer or copy paper would be a nice size for this envelope.<br />Folding level: Easy/Beginner<br />Steps: 12<br />Description: This is a flat, square tato or envelope with an attractive design at its center, especially eye-catching if folded from origami paper that is patterned or colored on one side.<br />The center decoration of this model also serves to provide a closure for the parcel.<br />Remarks:<br />This fold can be used in scrap books, on top of gifts, for enclosing cards, notes, money, any small, flat object.<br />The model is quite secure as long as you do not fill it with things that are heavy or bulky.<br />Alternatively, a note can simply be folded into this model and decorated for a quick children's project or a personal touch.<br />It can also be folded as pretty coasters for a special occasion.<br /> If you are using paper that is colored on one side, place the color you want the center design to be, facing up.<br />NOTE: This model starts from the blintz base. If you are able to achieve this without instructions, fold the blintz base, then go to Step 5.<br />You can also learn about the Blintz and other origami bases at the following link:<br /><a href="https://www.accessorigami.com/p/introduction-to-folds-and-bases-used-in.html" target="_blank">Bases Used in Origami</a><br />Step 1<br />Place a square down with its edges to the left and right, top and bottom.<br />Step 2<br />Fold the left edge over to meet the right edge. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 3<br />Fold the top edge down to meet the bottom edge. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 4<br />Make the blintz fold by using the method you prefer to fold all four corners in to meet at the center of the square.<br />When pressed flat, you should end up with a smaller square-shaped model divided into 4 triangles.<br />Make sure that, as far as possible, all outside corners are folded neatly at a 90 degree angle and that the crease lines all lie straight and meet precisely in the center of the square.<br />Step 5<br />Open the square all the way and turn it over from left to right.<br />Step 6<br />Fold in all 4 points, just to meet the center points of the first crease lines you encounter.<br />Your paper will still be fairly large, with 4 small triangles that have been folded on each side.<br />Step 7<br />Keeping the small triangles folded, turn over the paper once again.<br />Step 8<br />Refold the center lines again by bringing the top edge to the bottom, unfold and then bring the left edge to the right and unfold.<br />Repeat these folds so that you are able to feel the center horizontal and vbertical creases of the model.<br />Step 9<br />Now, turn the paper so that one of the edges with the folded triangle is facing you.<br />The small triangle will be hidden at this stage, but will be revealed with the next step.<br />Step 10<br />fold the edge up so it meets the center crease of the paper, flipping the small triangular point from underneath the model.<br />Crease well and leave folded.<br />You will notice that the small folded triangle is now at the center of the square.<br />Step 11<br />Rotate your paper 90 degrees and repeat the previous step three more times, always making sure that you fold the edge to the center of the square and that the left and right sides of the envelope are as straight as possible.<br />You will notice that the edges and corners of Your folds will start to overlap each other as you fold the 2nd, 3rd and 4th sides.<br />The small triangles will all meet each other at the center of the folded square, creating a unique, eye-catching design.<br /> Step 12<br />Lastly, locate the right bottom corner of your paper. Lift it up and grab the bottom flap that is underneath it.<br />Tuck the right flap under and press flat to lock the envelope.<br />You should have a flat, square envelope with a cluster of triangles at its center, resembling a flower or diamond shape formed by the small points created in the early stages of your project.<br />You will know that you have folded correctly if all 4 triangles at the center of the design look similar and are separated by folds that face in the same direction.<br />The tato should be securely closed now. It can only be opened by pulling out the last flap from its tucked-in position.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, May 2019<br />Revised: October 2023</p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-34126612802147029002023-10-16T00:17:00.000-07:002024-02-11T23:24:18.175-08:00MDL0081 - ORIGAMI - FESTIVAL LANTERN - 2 VARIATIONS (FROM A SQUARE)<p>Text-Only Instructions<br />Credits and Resources:<br />This is a traditional model.<br />Paper to be used: Square, any size; use large paper to practice with at first.<br />Colored or speciality origami paper will make nice lanterns.<br />Folding level: Intermediate<br />Steps: 20<br />Description: This model is a three-dimensional lantern. It is almost dome-shaped at the top and open at the bottom. It is divided into 8 sections with alternating smooth diamond shapes and decorative kite shapes.<br /> Remarks:<br />This model makes a wonderful decoration for any festive occasion.<br />If you are using two-sided paper, make sure that the side you want for the outside of the lantern is facing down before you start to fold.<br />NOTE: This model starts from the preliminary or square base. If you are able to achieve this without instructions, fold the base and then go to Step 9.<br />Step 1<br />Place a square down so that it forms a diamond shape.<br />Step 2<br />Bring the left point over to meet the right point. Crease and unfold.<br />Step 3<br />Bring the top point down to meet the bottom point. Crease and unfold. <br />Step 4<br />Turn the square over and position it so that its edges are facing up and down, left and right.<br />Step5 <br />Bring the left edge over to meet the right edge. Crease and unfold. <br />Step 6 <br />Bring the top edge down to meet the bottom edge. Crease and leave folded.<br />Step 7<br />Grasp the left and right points of the resulting rectangle, pick the model up from your folding surface and push inward. The model should collapse along the pre-existing folds.<br />The result will be a square or diamond-shaped model, with four flaps one each to the left and right, front and back.<br />Step 8 <br />Fold the front flap to the left and fold the back flap to the right so that your model will lie flat.<br />The model will have one open end, which should be pointing toward you.<br />Step 9<br />Bring the lower right edge of the model (top layer only) over to meet the vertical center crease line. Crease and unfold. <br />Step 10<br />Bring the lower right edge of the model (top layer only) backward along the same crease line made in Step 9. Crease and unfold. <br />Step 11<br />Open up the bottom right edge of the model and push the right point over and down to meet the vertical center crease.<br />The model's top layer should collapse along the crease lines made in Steps 9 and 10. Press flat.<br />The top layer of the model should now resemble an upside down kite. <br />Step 12<br />Bring the lower left edge of the newly formed upside down kite shape up to meet the model's vertical center crease line. Crease and unfold. <br />Step 13<br />Bring the lower left edge of the upside down kite shape backward along the same crease line made in Step 12. Crease and unfold. <br />Step 14<br />Repeat Steps 12 and 13 for the lower right edge of the upside down kite shape. <br />The creases formed in the previous 3 steps will now allow you to perform a petal fold.<br /> Step 15<br />Open up the upside down kite shape and lift the free horizontal edge upward, toward the top of the model.<br />At the same time, bring the kite shapes left and right points together to meet at the model's vertical center line.<br />Press flat to create a skinny kite shape that is divided along its vertical center and that seems to be resting atop another diamond shape.<br />Step 16<br />Fold the skinny kite shape in half lengthwise, from right to left. Press flat. <br />Step 17<br />Repeat Steps 9 to 16 with the unfolded flap that remains on the right side of your model.<br />Step 18<br />Turn the model over from left to right so you have 2 flaps on the right of the model once again.<br />Step 19<br />Repeat Steps 9 to 17 on this side of the model so that it ends up cymmetrical with various diamond shapes having been formed.<br />Step 20<br />Now, open up the model to form the lantern.<br />Variation 1<br />For the first variation of the lantern, the 4 kite shapes should be hidden within the creases of the lantern and the 4 smooth-surfaced diamond shaped sections should be pressed diagonally outwards, working from the interior of the model. <br />Variation 2<br /> A lantern with a different look may be created instead, by hiding the smooth-surfaced diamond shapes within the creases of the lantern and making each kite shape visible.<br />Each kite shape will have a loose top flap, which should be folded down so that it is sticking straight out from the model.<br />Optional: If preferred, fold the long, loose points at the bottom of the lantern to the inside. This will make the lantern appear somewhat shorter and wider.<br />Accessible Origami - Volume 6 - 10 TRADITIONAL TREASURES<br />Making origami accessible through text-only instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe, August 2009<br />Revised: July 2023 <br /></p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4698821700474669907.post-30447763865472937302023-10-04T01:13:00.008-07:002023-12-19T12:46:56.831-08:00MOD6 - MODULAR ORIGAMI - TRADITIONAL MENKO OR PUZZLE PURSE (FROM 2 SQUARES)<div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmYhElQ10FOgds9oKhr1UJGt8OQe1vvjCiGW78z9tMksx5SsmqNVVEiQRuTbAPMsJwJuxm5Q4-abr-BPTE1YliUJBpCWYeCsAd1xfzLYrwWVfAhNjOX4OrLcg6mdap7BWFK9JqCcBnEM3Np8XOwK04uFjUR7BXzhOqYLkThpUyi4BtDs4GGZ-8OZW9KtE/s1024/AO%20-%20MOD6%20-%20MENKO.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: center;"><img a="" alt="Traditional Menko from 2 Squares" border="0" data-original-height="1024" data-original-width="768" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmYhElQ10FOgds9oKhr1UJGt8OQe1vvjCiGW78z9tMksx5SsmqNVVEiQRuTbAPMsJwJuxm5Q4-abr-BPTE1YliUJBpCWYeCsAd1xfzLYrwWVfAhNjOX4OrLcg6mdap7BWFK9JqCcBnEM3Np8XOwK04uFjUR7BXzhOqYLkThpUyi4BtDs4GGZ-8OZW9KtE/s320/AO%20-%20MOD6%20-%20MENKO.jpg" /></a><span> </span></div><p></p><p>The image shows the Traditional Menko folded from 1 yellow and 1 green note square. The front of the square envelope shows an alternating pattern of 2 yellow and 2 green triangles. <br /></p><p>The back of the Menko is not shown here, but since the yellow module was placed down first, the back of the envelope is yellow only.</p><p> </p><p>Text-Only Instructions<br />Credits and Resources:<br />Instructions with pictures can be found at<br /><a href=" http://www.wikihow.com/Make-Modular-Origami" target="_blank">wikihow.com/Make-Modular-Origami</a><br />and on various sites elsewhere on the Internet with some minor variation on folding methods and sequences.<br />Paper to be used: 2 squares of similar size; use large paper to practice with at first.<br />Folding level: Beginner<br />Steps: 8<br />Description: This is a modular origami model, meaning that it is made up of different, similar folded units, which are fitted together to form the finished model.<br />This model is a traditional flat envelope, folded from 2 squares of paper. Its finished size is a third of the paper you are starting with.<br />It is closed securely with a flap, so no glue is necessary for ordinary use.<br />It is smooth on one side and has an overlapping, triangular motif resembling the 4 arms of a pinwheel on the other. It can be opened by folding back the flaps, one at a time, revealing the two center squares, which has been placed on top of each other.<br />Remarks:<br />This is a great project for those who would like to start making models using modular origami.<br />It attempts to introduce the basic concepts, methods and phases of folding and assembling a modular origami project.<br />The units are fairly easy to fold and assembly is done using simple folds and a tucked in flap.<br />When you have become familiar with assembling the units, you might like to try and use more than one color when designing your menko.<br />It is fun to write messages on the inside flaps and also on the two center squares. One can also write a number on the outer flaps of the menko to indicate the order in which the flaps should be opened as well as on the back.<br />It makes a nice birthday invitation and can also be used as a coaster.<br />PHASE 1: CREATING THE UNITS<br />If using two-sided origami paper, lay your paper with the patterned or colored side down before starting to fold.<br />Step 1<br />Place a square down with its edges to the left and right, top and bottom.<br />Step 2<br />Divide and fold your square into thirds.<br />The easiest method I have found to do this is to pick up your paper and gently fold the sides over to their opposite edges, into an S or a Z fold. Adjust your folds on both sides before making small creases right at the edges of the paper to mark where you will fold.<br />Don't worry if this is difficult at first. It will become easier with practice.<br />Unfold all the way again. <br />Using the small marks you have made, fold the top edge of the square down a third of the way and then over once more, like you would a letter going into an envelope.<br />You will now have a long, closed rectangle made up of 3 layers of paper.<br />Step 3<br />Make sure your rectangle is placed with the short edges left and right.<br />Fold the right bottom corner up so the bottom tip meets the top of the paper, making a diagonal crease. Crease well. <br />Fold the left top corner down to meet the bottom of the paper, making a diagonal crease. Crease well.<br />You’ll have a parallelogram, or what will look like a square in the middle of the paper, flanked on each side by triangles (which will be facing in opposite directions.<br />PHASE 2: FOLD ANOTHER SIMILAR UNIT<br />Repeat steps 1 to 3 once more so you have 2 similarly shaped units to work with.<br />PHASE 3: ASSEMBLING YOUR MODEL<br />Step 4<br />Make sure both your pieces have the triangular folds facing up. If your shapes have a smooth surface, flip them over so you can feel the triangular folds on each side.<br />Step 5<br />Lay down the first piece so it is oriented horizontally <br />Then lay the secon<span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><br />d piece over the first, but oriented in a vertical position, so the center squares are on top of each other.<br />Notice that you now have one multi-layered center square with triangular flaps sticking out on all 4 sides.<br />Step 6<br />Starting from the bottom, fold up the first flap so it folds across the center square. It should be fairly easy because of the folds you have made previously.<br />Step 7<br />Repeat this action with the right and top triangular flaps as well.<br />Step 8<br />Lastly,take the triangle on the left and tuck it into the pocket you will find underneath it. So, lift up the flap and gently bend it and tuck it into the first diagonal slit you can find. This slit runs from the center of the model downwards to the left corner.<br /> You will know that your fold has been done correctly if the menko stays securely closed when you pick it up. There should be a design on the front of the model made up of 4 flaps with their fold marks or slits all facing in the same direction.<br />Making origami accessible to visually impaired crafters through text instructions.<br />for non-commercial use only.<br />Compiled by Lindy van der Merwe - May 2019<br />Revised, July 2023</p>Lindyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17259641657795967392noreply@blogger.com0